1st Edition

Accelerating Sustainability in Fashion, Clothing and Textiles

Edited By Martin Charter, Bernice Pan, Sandy Black Copyright 2024
    476 Pages 77 B/W Illustrations
    by Routledge

    476 Pages 77 B/W Illustrations
    by Routledge

    The issue of sustainability is characterised as a ‘wicked problem’ in the fashion, clothing and textiles sector and is now coming into increased focus due to growing consumer, business and policy pressures. This in-depth volume presents a comprehensive overview of the challenges and emerging opportunities faced by the sector, and provides strategic solutions as to how the sector can substantially accelerate sustainability.

    This book collates research and industry best practice to provide a ‘one-stop shop’ exploring the complex and interconnected issues surrounding sustainability in fashion, clothing and textiles. The practical and digestible chapters include innovative examples and perspectives from different regions of the globe, addressing topics from policies to supply chain issues and materials innovation. Five unique case studies of sustainable businesses provide detailed examples of pioneering practice. Edited by three professionals with long-standing knowledge and expertise, the book takes a global perspective with examples that illustrate the scale and breadth of topics and regions in the scope of sustainability. This holistic approach brings together both academic and industry perspectives on the critical areas that require immediate action to move towards a more sustainable fashion, clothing and textile sector.

    This is an invaluable resource for those working in the industry, policymakers and for those in business or academia with an interest in sustainability in fashion, clothing, textiles and related sectors worldwide. It is also relevant to professionals and students in the areas of sustainability, innovation, supply chains, design and development, consultancy, education and training.

    1 Introduction

    Martin Charter, Bernice Pan and Sandy Black

    PART I Fashion system landscape

    2 Overview

    Martin Charter

    3 The Wicked Problem

    Bernice Pan

    PART II Policy and standards

    4 Global policy covering sustainability in fashion and clothing: a review and implications

    Martin Charter and Lilian Sanchez-Moreno

    5 Traceability, transparency and greenwashing: highlighting growing drivers for traceability and transparency in the sector, and emerging challenges surrounding greenwashing of garments

    Josephine Riemens, Mathilde Asseman and Andree-Anne Lemieux

    6 Using textile testing information to ensure garment quality, longevity and transparency

    Claire Lerpiniere and Angela Davies

    PART III Business and innovation

    7 Finance and funding for upscaling sustainable fashion

    Fergus Lyon, Patrick Elf, Robyn Owen and Andrea Werner

    8 Managing sustainable innovation

    Christine Goulay

    9 Fostering sustainable practices: the case of micro and small designer fashion enterprises

    Sandy Black, Mila Burcikova, Dilys Williams, Agnes Rocamora, Fergus Lyon, Andrea Werner, Ian Vickers, Patrick Elf, Claudia Eckert and Philippa Crommentuijn-Marsh

    PART IV Case studies: values-based entrepreneurs

    10 Desserto®: cactus fibre as leather substitute

    Sandy Black

    11 DePloy: customisation for 360° sustainability

    Sandy Black

    12 TOBEFRANK: transparency in practice

    Martin Charter

    13 MUD Jeans: denim with circularity

    Sandy Black

    14 SXD: working with climate refugees

    Martin Charter

    PART V Consumers, culture and ecosystems

    15 Clothing 2050: garment scenarios to drive circular material systems

    Rebecca Earley

    16 Shifting the needle: can we build the next generation of consumer activism and advocacy for sustainable fashion?

    Oliver Bealby-Wright and Helena Leurent

    17 Crafting connections with clothing: values, influence and relationships

    Carra Santos, Kadian Gosler and Ann Marie Newton

    18 Unheard voices: reclaiming fashion sustainability

    Elizabeth Bye, Paige Tomfohrde, Lisa Nel, and Sage Davis

    19 Regions, communities, and localism

    Miguel Angel Gardetti, Rawan Maki, Shalini Gupta, and Sara Cavagnero

    PART VI Circular economy

    20 Circular economy in the textile and apparel sector: an overview of global trends, challenges and opportunities

    Lis Suarez-Visbal, Claudia Stuckrath and Jesus Rosales Carreon

    21 New forms of governance to accelerate circular textiles in the Netherlands

    Jacqueline Cramer

    22 Accelerating circularity in textiles: lessons learned from a regional perspective

    Jan Mahy and Jens Oelerich

    23 Biomimicry, biomaterials and textiles

    Veronika Kapsali and Carolina Roberte De Oliveira

    24 Reincarnation: waste, reuse, repair and upcycling

    Yoon Jung Choi, Jen Ballie and Alka Puri

    PART VII Education

    25 Curriculum: challenges, opportunities, and approaches to increasing sustainability content in fashion and textiles education

    Christine Baeza, Samantha Corcoran, and Elizabeth S. Quinn

    26 Methodologies and tools: incorporating sustainability content in fashion, apparel and textiles educational curriculum through facilitating materials

    Ulla Rabild, Sabine Lettmann and Karen Marie Hasling

    27 The use of digital pedagogies for accessible and equitable teaching and learning of fashion design for sustainability: a case study

    Natasha Bonnelame and Nina Stevenson

    PART VIII Future and technology

    28 A pathway towards future sustainable fashion in 2030

    Ichin Cheng and Martin Charter

    29 Risky business: sustainable fashion through new technologies

    Trevor Davis, Lucy E. Dunne and Elizabeth Bigger

    30 Wearable tech, virtual fashion, and immersive technologies

    Gozde Goncu-Berk and Emily Rosa Shahaj

    31 Fashion ex machina: human–machine collaboration to support sustainability through customized design and production

    Elizabeth E. Bigger, Helga Ahrens-Wels and Hannah C. Kelbel

    32 Conclusion: progress, challenges and prospects

    Martin Charter, Bernice Pan and Sandy Black


    Martin Charter is Professor of Innovation and Sustainability and Director at the University for the Creative Arts. He has worked on sustainability and innovation issues for 35 years and is the author/editor of numerous publications. Martin is a fellow of the Royal Society of Arts and Clean Leadership Growth Network.

    Bernice Pan is an award-winning design entrepreneur, speaker and author, combining vision, theory and practice. She founded DEPLOY in 2006 to reform fashion sector; in 2022, the company received B Corp status.

    Sandy Black is Research Professor and design educator in the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. As a pioneering author of numerous book titles on fashion and sustainability, Sandy works to catalyse sustainable fashion and textiles practices and sustainable prosperity.

    “To change the impact of the fashion industry on people and nature, we must revolutionise all that we consider to be normal. This book scopes ideas for immediate action to tackle this wicked problem with creativity and commitment, so we can wear clothes that fit our principles.”

    Orsola de Castro, Author and Co-Founder, Fashion Revolution

    “A thought-provoking collection combining academic research and industry experiences, this is a valuable resource for a wide range of stakeholders with insights, ideas, and key questions, highlighting the complex issues facing a sector that urgently seeks a sustainable future.”

    Andrew Martin, Executive Vice President, Sustainable Apparel Coalition