Visual Typologies from the Early Modern to the Contemporary investigates the pictorial representation of types from the sixteenth to the twenty- first century. Originating in longstanding visual traditions, including street crier prints and costume albums, these images share certain conventions as they seek to convey knowledge about different peoples. The genre of the type became widespread in the early modern period, developing into a global language of identity. The chapters explore diverse pictorial representations of types, customs, and dress in numerous media, including paintings, prints, postcards, photographs, and garments. Together, they reveal that the activation of typological strategies, including seriality, repetition, appropriation, and subversion has produced a universal and dynamic pictorial language. Typological images highlight the tensions between the local and the international, the specific and the communal, and similarity and difference inherent in the construction of identity. The first full- length study to treat these images as a broader genre, Visual Typologies gives voice to a marginalized form of representation. Together, the chapters debunk the classification of such images as unmediated and authentic representations, offering fresh methodological frameworks to consider their meanings locally and globally, and establishing common ground about the operations of objects that sought to shape, embody, or challenge individual and collective identities.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Introduction to Visual Typologies from the Early Modern to the Contemporary: Local Contexts and Global Practices
Tara Zanardi and Lynda Klich
Repeating, Borrowing, and Serializing
Fashion, Nation and Morality in English Allegorical Costume Prints, c. 1620-40
Heather A. Hughes
"Bodies of Work in the ancien régime: the Costumes Grotesques by Nicolas I de Larmessin"
Sarah E. Buck
The Color of the Orient: On Ottoman Costume Albums, European Print Culture, and Cross-Cultural Exchange
On and off the Tram: Contemporary Types and Customs in Madrid’s Illustrated and Satirical Press (1874-1898)
Venice: City of Fashion and Power in Giacomo Franco’s Habiti d’huomini et donne venetiane (ca.1610) 78
Costuming the Empire: A Study on the Production of Tributary Paintings at the Qianlong Court in Eighteenth-Century China
Enrique Díaz’s Parade of Progress: Toward a Streamlined Mexican Future
Performing the Documentary
"True Types of the London Poor": Street Life in London’s Transitional Typology
Emily Kathryn Morgan
The Myth of the Baiana in Nineteenth-Century Portrait Photography
Circulating lo mexicano in Mauricio Yáñez’s Postcards
It is written in their faces: Seri women and facial painting in photography.
Deborah DorotinskyMaterials of Typologies
Fashioning a Nation. Military dress in Peruvian Independence, 1821-1822
From Global Traveler to Costumbrista Motif: The Mantón de Manila and the Appropriation of the Exotic
Cloth, Clothing, and Colonial Power: France and West Africa at the Expositions
Victoria L. Rovine
Against "Fashion-Time:" Bernhard Willhelm, Regional Folk Dress and the Contemporary
Charlene K. Lau
Ambassadors à la turc: Assimilation and Dissimulation in Eighteenth-Century Images of French-Ottoman Diplomacy
The Transmediterranean Routes of Fashion: Between Material Expression and Artistic Representation
Julio Galán and the Type: Fashioning a ‘Border’ Aesthetic
Tara Zanardi is Associate Professor of Art History, Hunter College, CUNY, USA.
Lynda Klich is Assistant Professor of Art History, Hunter College, CUNY, USA.