Woven Fabric Structure Design and Product Planning: 1st Edition (Hardback) book cover

Woven Fabric Structure Design and Product Planning

1st Edition

Edited by J. Hayavadana

WPI Publishing

166 pages | 90 B/W Illus.

Purchasing Options:$ = USD
Hardback: 9789380308241
pub: 2015-01-14

FREE Standard Shipping!


The book deals with the structural details of the woven fabric which has glimpses of primary, secondary, and tertiary weaves. The book has a number of examples on each topic and a few chapters have been given with objective type of questions.

Table of Contents



Introduction to fabric structure

The process of fabric formation

Important parts of loom

Heald shafts

Sley or lay


Shuttle box



Warp beam

Back beam

Breast beam

Cloth beam

Passage of warp through loom

General features of fabric

Group I: Classification with respect tothreads per unit area

Group II: Classification with respect to weave

Elements of fabric

Body vs selvedge

Face vs back

Warp and weft

Width and weight

Expression of weight


Threads/unit area (reed  pick) and cover

Yarn crimp (woven fabric)

Fabric shrinkage

Method of notation of structure or design

Weave repeat

Selection of reed and its importance

Elements of fabric structure

Design or interlacement fashion (discussion iswith respect to weaving only)

Draft or drawing plan or drawing in draft

Lifting plan or peg plan

Type of relation among elements of fabric structure

Construction of elements of fabric structure

Construction of draft from design

Notation for draft calculation of numberof heald shafts and methods of draft indication

Construction of design from draft and peg plan

Construction of peg plan from design and draft (Fig. 1.10)

Construction of draft from design and peg plan

Types of draft in weaving

Straight draft

Point draft

Skip draft

Broken draft

Sateen draft

Divided draft

Grouped draft

Curved drafts

Combined draft

Practical aspects of fabric designing

Illustrative example for calculations in weaving

Exercises for students

Multiple choice questions; select the correct answer

Write answers to the following in 2 or 3 sentences

Essay type questions; write answers to the following


Classification of weaves and study of plain weave

Characteristics of weaves

Classification of weaves

Classification of single-layered fabrics

Rib and cord effects in plain weave(without weave modification)

Modifications of plain weave


Modification of plain in warp way – warp rib[Figs. 2.1(a)–(f)]

Weaving arrangement

Applications of warp rib

Commercial significance of ribs production

Production of weft rib or moreen[Figs. 2.2(a)–(d′)]

Hair cords

Matt, hopsack or basket weaves and fabrics

Modification of matt: fancy matt and stitchedhopsack (Figs. 2.4–2.7)

Poplin and repp fabrics

Figured repps

Classification of plain cloths

Basis of classification of plain cloths

Based on construction

Based on weight

Based on cover factor

Based on weight factor

Approximately square plain cloths

Light-weight square plain cloths

Cotton dairy cloth

Cotton cheesecloth

Cotton cloth for electrical insulation

Cotton tracing cloth

Cotton filter cloth

Cotton typewriter ribbon fabric

Bleached linen cambric

Spun viscose dress fabric

Filament nylon blouse andlingerie fabric

Filament nylon overall fabric

Medium-weight square plain cloths

Cotton sheeting

Heavy-weight square plain fabrics

Light-weight cotton duck

Heavy-weight cotton duck

Thorn-proof tweed

Warp-faced plain cloths

Terylene shirting

Acetate dress poult

Cotton poplin

Cotton canvas for sports shoes

Cotton canvas for conveyor belts

Weft-faced plain cloth

Cotton limbric

Cotton casement cloth

Cotton-mohair lining fabric

Voile fabrics

Twill weaves and their modification

Twill weaves

Principle of construction

Characteristics of twill weaves

Classification or types of twills

Balanced and unbalanced twills

Construction of right hand (z) andleft hand (s) twills

Stage-by-stage construction of twills

Effect of change in footing

Angle of a twill

Modification of twill weaves

Rearranged twills on sateen base

Transposed twills

Combined twills

End-to-end combined twills

Weaving arrangement

Pick-to-pick combination

Steep and flat twills

Pointed or wavy or zigzag twills

Weaving arrangements

Herringbone twills

Diamonds and diaper twills

Weaving arrangement

Broken twills

Skip twills

Special twill from plain derivatives

Twist-twill interaction (emphasizing a twill)

Commercial twills [Figs. 3.18(a)–(e)]

Three-end twills

Four-end twills

Five-end twill

Exercises for students

Sateen and satin weaves

Introduction and characteristics

Types of sateen

Construction of sateen

Examples on weft sateen

Construction of warp satin weaves

Draft and peg plan for sateens or satins

Modification of sateen

Satin stripes

Satin checks

Colour-and-weave effects

Principles of colour-and-weave effects

Examples on colour and weave effect

Development of coloured stripe forplain with 1:1 colouring

Development of patterns with compoundcolouring

Development of dogstooth and houndstooth

Stepped twill

Birds eye view

Stripe and check effect

Glen checks


I. Choose the correct answer from the alternatives given

II. Answer the following questions

Huck-a-back weaves

Scope of huck-a-back weaves

Characteristics of huck-a-back toweling fabrics (requirements of water absorption)

Systematic construction of huck-a-back weave

Point paper representation [Figs. 6.1(a)–(j)]

Modification of ordinary huck-a-back

Weaving arrangements

Beaming, counts of yarns and typeof loom

Drawing and denting arrangements

Research studies on huck-a-back weave

Honeycomb weaves

Features of honeycomb

How it absorbs water?

Classification of HC

Construction of ordinary HC

Simple ordinary HC (OHC)

Ends leaded HC [Figs. 6.2(d)and (d¢)]

Picks leaded HC [Figs. 6.2(e)and (e¢)]

Straight drafted HC

Brighton HC

Why honeycomb is called athree-dimensional structure?

Ornamentation in HC

Distinction between OHC and BHC


Mock leno and distorted effects


Counts of yarn

Construction of design for perforated fabrics(principle of turn down)

How exactly the openness is produced(weaving|arrangement) [Figs. 7.1(d) and (e)]

Ornamentation of mock leno

Distorted thread effect


Answer the following questions in not more than six sentences

Crepe surface and crepe weaves (Oatmeal)

Construction of crepe weaves

On staeen base [Figs. 8.1(a) and (b)]

By reversing small tufts (principle of turn down)

By superimposing

By combining a plain weave with a floating weave

Production of crepe yarns

Control of crepe figure

Dimensional stability

Examples of crepe fabrics

Bedford cords and piques



Warp way

Weft way

Classification of bedford cords

Simple or plain-faced bedford cords[Figs. 9.1(a)–(e)]

Bedford cord with alternate picks

Wadded bedford cords

Wadding ends and their arrangementin weaving

Twill-faced bedford cords [Figs. 9.1(i)–(k)]



Welts or piques

Types of threads and their arrangement (RTP)

Classification of piques

Simple or plain pique(single face or groundand cutting picks)

Loose back and fast back piques

Wadded and backed pique

How exactly the wadding picks are madeto lie at centre [Figs. 9.2(e) and (e′)]

Waved piques

Weaving arrangements for piques



Loom equipment

Distinction between bedford cords and piques


Answer the following questions in two to four sentences

Ornamentation of fabrics

What is meant by ornamentation?

Principles of ornamentation

Approaches for ornamentation of plain cloths

Use of colour

Use of fibres varying in geometry and substrate

By varying twist

By Varying count, sett and twist

Cockled, blistered and seersucker effects

Tension differences: seersucker

Differential shrinkage

Special finishes


About the Series

Woodhead Publishing India in Textiles

Learn more…

Subject Categories

BISAC Subject Codes/Headings: