1st Edition
Accelerating Sustainability in Fashion, Clothing and Textiles
The issue of sustainability is characterised as a ‘wicked problem’ in the fashion, clothing and textiles sector and is now coming into increased focus due to growing consumer, business and policy pressures. This in-depth volume presents a comprehensive overview of the challenges and emerging opportunities faced by the sector, and provides strategic solutions as to how the sector can substantially accelerate sustainability.
This book collates research and industry best practice to provide a ‘one-stop shop’ exploring the complex and interconnected issues surrounding sustainability in fashion, clothing and textiles. The practical and digestible chapters include innovative examples and perspectives from different regions of the globe, addressing topics from policies to supply chain issues and materials innovation. Five unique case studies of sustainable businesses provide detailed examples of pioneering practice. Edited by three professionals with long-standing knowledge and expertise, the book takes a global perspective with examples that illustrate the scale and breadth of topics and regions in the scope of sustainability. This holistic approach brings together both academic and industry perspectives on the critical areas that require immediate action to move towards a more sustainable fashion, clothing and textile sector.
This is an invaluable resource for those working in the industry, policymakers and for those in business or academia with an interest in sustainability in fashion, clothing, textiles and related sectors worldwide. It is also relevant to professionals and students in the areas of sustainability, innovation, supply chains, design and development, consultancy, education and training.
1 Introduction
Martin Charter, Bernice Pan and Sandy Black
PART I Fashion system landscape
2 Overview
Martin Charter
3 The Wicked Problem
Bernice Pan
PART II Policy and standards
4 Global policy covering sustainability in fashion and clothing: a review and implications
Martin Charter and Lilian Sanchez-Moreno
5 Traceability, transparency and greenwashing: highlighting growing drivers for traceability and transparency in the sector, and emerging challenges surrounding greenwashing of garments
Josephine Riemens, Mathilde Asseman and Andree-Anne Lemieux
6 Using textile testing information to ensure garment quality, longevity and transparency
Claire Lerpiniere and Angela Davies
PART III Business and innovation
7 Finance and funding for upscaling sustainable fashion
Fergus Lyon, Patrick Elf, Robyn Owen and Andrea Werner
8 Managing sustainable innovation
Christine Goulay
9 Fostering sustainable practices: the case of micro and small designer fashion enterprises
Sandy Black, Mila Burcikova, Dilys Williams, Agnes Rocamora, Fergus Lyon, Andrea Werner, Ian Vickers, Patrick Elf, Claudia Eckert and Philippa Crommentuijn-Marsh
PART IV Case studies: values-based entrepreneurs
10 Desserto®: cactus fibre as leather substitute
Sandy Black
11 DePloy: customisation for 360° sustainability
Sandy Black
12 TOBEFRANK: transparency in practice
Martin Charter
13 MUD Jeans: denim with circularity
Sandy Black
14 SXD: working with climate refugees
Martin Charter
PART V Consumers, culture and ecosystems
15 Clothing 2050: garment scenarios to drive circular material systems
Rebecca Earley
16 Shifting the needle: can we build the next generation of consumer activism and advocacy for sustainable fashion?
Oliver Bealby-Wright and Helena Leurent
17 Crafting connections with clothing: values, influence and relationships
Carra Santos, Kadian Gosler and Ann Marie Newton
18 Unheard voices: reclaiming fashion sustainability
Elizabeth Bye, Paige Tomfohrde, Lisa Nel, and Sage Davis
19 Regions, communities, and localism
Miguel Angel Gardetti, Rawan Maki, Shalini Gupta, and Sara Cavagnero
PART VI Circular economy
20 Circular economy in the textile and apparel sector: an overview of global trends, challenges and opportunities
Lis Suarez-Visbal, Claudia Stuckrath and Jesus Rosales Carreon
21 New forms of governance to accelerate circular textiles in the Netherlands
Jacqueline Cramer
22 Accelerating circularity in textiles: lessons learned from a regional perspective
Jan Mahy and Jens Oelerich
23 Biomimicry, biomaterials and textiles
Veronika Kapsali and Carolina Roberte De Oliveira
24 Reincarnation: waste, reuse, repair and upcycling
Yoon Jung Choi, Jen Ballie and Alka Puri
PART VII Education
25 Curriculum: challenges, opportunities, and approaches to increasing sustainability content in fashion and textiles education
Christine Baeza, Samantha Corcoran, and Elizabeth S. Quinn
26 Methodologies and tools: incorporating sustainability content in fashion, apparel and textiles educational curriculum through facilitating materials
Ulla Rabild, Sabine Lettmann and Karen Marie Hasling
27 The use of digital pedagogies for accessible and equitable teaching and learning of fashion design for sustainability: a case study
Natasha Bonnelame and Nina Stevenson
PART VIII Future and technology
28 A pathway towards future sustainable fashion in 2030
Ichin Cheng and Martin Charter
29 Risky business: sustainable fashion through new technologies
Trevor Davis, Lucy E. Dunne and Elizabeth Bigger
30 Wearable tech, virtual fashion, and immersive technologies
Gozde Goncu-Berk and Emily Rosa Shahaj
31 Fashion ex machina: human–machine collaboration to support sustainability through customized design and production
Elizabeth E. Bigger, Helga Ahrens-Wels and Hannah C. Kelbel
32 Conclusion: progress, challenges and prospects
Martin Charter, Bernice Pan and Sandy Black
Biography
Martin Charter is Professor of Innovation and Sustainability and Director at the University for the Creative Arts. He has worked on sustainability and innovation issues for 35 years and is the author/editor of numerous publications. Martin is a fellow of the Royal Society of Arts and Clean Leadership Growth Network.
Bernice Pan is an award-winning design entrepreneur, speaker and author, combining vision, theory and practice. She founded DEPLOY in 2006 to reform fashion sector; in 2022, the company received B Corp status.
Sandy Black is Research Professor and design educator in the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. As a pioneering author of numerous book titles on fashion and sustainability, Sandy works to catalyse sustainable fashion and textiles practices and sustainable prosperity.
“To change the impact of the fashion industry on people and nature, we must revolutionise all that we consider to be normal. This book scopes ideas for immediate action to tackle this wicked problem with creativity and commitment, so we can wear clothes that fit our principles.”
Orsola de Castro, Author and Co-Founder, Fashion Revolution
“A thought-provoking collection combining academic research and industry experiences, this is a valuable resource for a wide range of stakeholders with insights, ideas, and key questions, highlighting the complex issues facing a sector that urgently seeks a sustainable future.”
Andrew Martin, Executive Vice President, Sustainable Apparel Coalition
