In its first years as an independent state, Azerbaijan was a prime example of post-Soviet chaos - beset by coups and civil strife and astride an ethnic, political and religious divide. Author Goltz was detoured in Baku in mid-1991 and decided to stay, this diary is the record of his experiences.
Table of Contents
1. Getting There Fair and Square 2. A Distant Coup 3. Friday Evening on Freedom Square 4. Karabakh: The Black Garden 5. Home Sweet Baku 6. A Reborn Republic 7. Xodjali 8. Slithering in the Swamp 9. Of Militias and Mamed the Mule 10. A Diversion Through the Islamic Republic of Iran 11. Riding the Roller Coaster 12. Coup Redux 13. From Ballots to Bullets 14. An Army Stumbles Forward 15. Alla Turca 16. Of War--and Oil 17. Corruption in the Ranks 18. Rumblings of Dissent 19. The Snow Job 20. Kelbajar 21. The Lull Before the Storm 22. The Crowbar--Or Hevdar Comes Home 23. Meanwhile, Back at the Front 24. Azerbaijan, Azerbaijan ... 25. Scars on the Soul