1st Edition
Cultural Flows in High-End Cuisine From the Periphery to the Center
Focusing on high-end cuisine, this book examines the flows of culinary knowledge from culturally peripheral locations to two cities at the global center, London and New York.
Through the voices of chefs and other professionals in the industry, this book invites readers to rethink our understandings of high-end and ethnic cuisines, as well as the conventions and principles that shape the contemporary field of gastronomy and fine dining. It examines a broad range of cuisines, including Peruvian, Korean, Mexican, Malaysian, Senegalese, West African, Thai, Chinese and Indian, and conveys the chefs’ voices as they strive to elevate their cuisines through discursive and material means, including the shaping of menus, dishes and restaurant decor. While the main focus falls on chefs as the producers of high-end cuisines, the book also gives consideration to their consumers, that is cosmopolitan diners in the two global cities, and to the influence of culinary intermediaries judging and legitimizing their high-end status. Theoretically, the book contributes to the debate on cultural globalization. It undertakes a study of hitherto rarely examined cultural counter-flows or reverse cultural globalization and analyses both the precipitants of this occurrence and the effects of cultural counterflows on both Western global cities and the home countries of chefs.
This book will be of great interest to students and scholars of food studies, food cultures, cultural globalization and culinary studies.
Introduction 1. Theoretical Approaches 2. Non-Core Cuisines in Global Cities 3. The Role of Culinary Rankings and Ratings in Making ‘Peripheral’ Cuisines Global 4. Gastrodiplomacy: State-led practices in Promoting Culinary Global Counterflows 5. Agents of Reverse Cultural Globalization: Social Profiles of the High-End ‘Non-Core’ Chefs and their Restaurants 6. Gaining Recognition as High-End Chefs 7. Collaboration and Competition in High-end Cuisine 8. The Impact of the New High-End Cuisines on the Culinary Fields of Chefs’ Host Cities and Home Countries 9. Beyond High-end Cuisine: Commonalities with and Differences from other Cultural Fields Methods Postscript: ‘Interviewing chefs in London and New York’ and ‘Additional data sources used in the analysis’.
Biography
Christel Lane is Professor Emeritus of Economic Sociology at the University of Cambridge, a member of the Department of Sociology, and a Fellow of St John’s College, UK. She has published numerous books and papers in a wide range of journals. Among her recent books on the cultural sociology of cuisine are The Cultivation of Taste: Chefs and the Organization of Fine Dining, (2016) and From Taverns to Gastropubs: Food, Drink, and Sociality in England (2018). Her articles on cultural aspects of fine dining have appeared in the journals Poetics, Food, Culture & Society, Organization Studies, and Cultural Sociology. Christel has served on the editorial boards of The British Journal of Sociology, Work, Employment and Society and Socio-Economic Review. She is Past President of the Society for the Advancement of Socio-Economics (SASE).
M. Pilar Opazo is an Assistant Professor of Practice at the Carroll School of Management, Boston College, USA. She is the author of Appetite for Innovation (2016), and the co-author of two Spanish-language volumes, Communications in Organizations, and Negotiation: Competing or Collaborating (2020, 2nd edition). Her work has been published in the journals Poetics, Food, Culture & Society, Organization Studies, and Sociological Theory. Prior to Boston College, Pilar was a Postdoctoral Associate and Lecturer at the MIT Sloan School of Management and the Columbia University Graduate School of Business.
'Growing numbers of chefs from the culinary periphery are now “talking back” to the supposed center of the restaurant world, questioning the primacy of traditional status hierarchies. Using fine dining in global cities like NYC and London as its focus, this book offers an important contribution to the ongoing -- and often heated -- debates on globalization, coloniality, and appropriation in the field of gastronomy as a material practice. Through interviews and the analysis of a variety of sources, the authors highlight the individual agency of chefs and other actors that so far have frequently been depicted as the mere victims of cultural domination.'
Fabio Parasecoli, New York University, USA
'This theoretically-engaged and innovative study of reverse cultural globalization in the up-market restaurant trade of London and New York explains persuasively how the reputations of ever more diverse foreign cuisines get promoted.'
Alan Warde, University of Manchester, UK
'Cultural Flows in High-End Cuisine offers a fascinating exploration of high-end restaurants specializing in “peripheral” cuisines in London and New York. Lane and Opazo present a groundbreaking study of the work of chefs in these establishments. They masterfully combine a detailed analysis of how chefs reconcile their culinary traditions with the demands of London's and New York's high-stakes culinary markets with a nuanced examination of global cultural flows and the dynamics of cultural fields. This book is a must-read for anyone interested in high-end dining, cultural spheres, or the transnational circulation of cultural products and practices.'
Vanina Leschziner, Toronto University, Canada
