1st Edition
Decentering Fashion on the Silk Roads Craft and Responsible Fashion Dynamics in Central Asia
Introduction
STEFANIE MALLON
PART I Decentering fashion
1 The impact on fashion of the world’s centre of gravity shift: Trade, identity and religion in emerging territories
CHIARA SEBASTIANI
2 Responsible fashion in Central Asia
AIKA ALEMI
3 Cultural identity and memory in clothing design in Kazakhstan (with sketches by Aishabibi Zhanabilova)
ASSIYA RUSLANOVNA NURDUBAYEVA AND GULNAR DZHAMBULOVNA BEKIBAYEVA
4 The contemporizing of Uzbek traditional textiles through collaboration and entrepreneurship
KARAN KHURANA AND ANNICK SCHRAMME
PART II Crafting decentred and responsible fashion
5 (Re)Felting the future: From ancient craftsmanship to contemporary fashion design
KIM POLDNER, GALINA MIHALEVA, AND AGNES EVANGELISTA
6 Social enterprises support textile artisans and designers in Afghanistan
SHARIFA JAMALDIN
7 Discourses of craftsmanship in fashion media: On (in)visibility and (dis)empowerment within the fashion system
IRA SOLOMATINA
8 An embroidery diary
IOANA CORDUNEANU
9 Building inclusive culture through tradition, craft and emerging technologies
ELISABETH LLOYD PFAHL
PART III Collaborating and diversifying to decentre fashion
10 The power of diversity: The interaction between craftspeople and designers as a resource for a diverse fashion system
JURE PURGAJ AND SABINE ALBERT
11 Courtyard as classrooms: Empowering learners through design research in rural India
SAUMYA PANDE AND RICHA SOOD
12 Fashion and disability. From diversity to equality? Analyzing practices in the fashion industry
SARA KAUFMAN, CARLOS GAGO RODRIGUEZ, AND ANNA ZINOLA
Biography
Stefanie Mallon is a cultural anthropologist and textile scientist at the University of Göttingen, Germany, with a research focus on Materiality and Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles. Recent publications include an article on ‘Digital fashion and the future of fashion’ which analyses users’ garment experience, a paper on ‘Performative aging in swim wear’, and an empirical study on fungus as an alternative for leather. Further works are the co-edited anthology ‘Death and the thing’ with studies about the meaning and functionality of textiles in the context of ‘death’, and an article titled ‘Thinking through fashion – Thinking fashion through’, which reflects on students’ perspectives on the future of fashion.
Galina Mihaleva is an artist, fashion and wearable technology designer. Mihaleva’s artistic practice and academic research deals primarily with the dialogue between body and dress, driven by the idea of having both a physical and a psychological relationship with a garment as responsive clothing.






