1st Edition

Decentering Fashion on the Silk Roads Craft and Responsible Fashion Dynamics in Central Asia

Edited By Stefanie Mallon, Galina Mihaleva Copyright 2025
224 Pages 30 B/W Illustrations
by Routledge

224 Pages 30 B/W Illustrations
by Routledge

224 Pages 30 B/W Illustrations
by Routledge

Decentering Fashion on the Silk Roads focuses on the dynamism of fashion, textile craft, heritage, and sustainability in Central Asia and beyond. The compelling series of accounts provides a comprehensive set of insights and impressions collected from both fashion academics, designers and practitioners from around the globe who journeyed through Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan and from those who live... Read more

Introduction

STEFANIE MALLON

PART I Decentering fashion

1 The impact on fashion of the world’s centre of gravity shift: Trade, identity and religion in emerging territories

CHIARA SEBASTIANI

2 Responsible fashion in Central Asia

AIKA ALEMI

3 Cultural identity and memory in clothing design in Kazakhstan (with sketches by Aishabibi Zhanabilova)

ASSIYA RUSLANOVNA NURDUBAYEVA AND GULNAR DZHAMBULOVNA BEKIBAYEVA

4 The contemporizing of Uzbek traditional textiles through collaboration and entrepreneurship

KARAN KHURANA AND ANNICK SCHRAMME

PART II Crafting decentred and responsible fashion

5 (Re)Felting the future: From ancient craftsmanship to contemporary fashion design

KIM POLDNER, GALINA MIHALEVA, AND AGNES EVANGELISTA

6 Social enterprises support textile artisans and designers in Afghanistan

SHARIFA JAMALDIN

7 Discourses of craftsmanship in fashion media: On (in)visibility and (dis)empowerment within the fashion system

IRA SOLOMATINA

8 An embroidery diary

IOANA CORDUNEANU

9 Building inclusive culture through tradition, craft and emerging technologies

ELISABETH LLOYD PFAHL

PART III Collaborating and diversifying to decentre fashion

10 The power of diversity: The interaction between craftspeople and designers as a resource for a diverse fashion system

JURE PURGAJ AND SABINE ALBERT

11 Courtyard as classrooms: Empowering learners through design research in rural India

SAUMYA PANDE AND RICHA SOOD

12 Fashion and disability. From diversity to equality? Analyzing practices in the fashion industry

SARA KAUFMAN, CARLOS GAGO RODRIGUEZ, AND ANNA ZINOLA

Biography

Stefanie Mallon is a cultural anthropologist and textile scientist at the University of Göttingen, Germany, with a research focus on Materiality and Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles. Recent publications include an article on ‘Digital fashion and the future of fashion’ which analyses users’ garment experience, a paper on ‘Performative aging in swim wear’, and an empirical study on fungus as an alternative for leather. Further works are the co-edited anthology ‘Death and the thing’ with studies about the meaning and functionality of textiles in the context of ‘death’, and an article titled ‘Thinking through fashion – Thinking fashion through’, which reflects on students’ perspectives on the future of fashion.

Galina Mihaleva is an artist, fashion and wearable technology designer. Mihaleva’s artistic practice and academic research deals primarily with the dialogue between body and dress, driven by the idea of having both a physical and a psychological relationship with a garment as responsive clothing.