2nd Edition

Fashion Cultures Revisited Theories, Explorations and Analysis

Edited By Stella Bruzzi, Pamela Church Gibson Copyright 2014
    448 Pages
    by Routledge

    448 Pages
    by Routledge

    Following on from the ground-breaking collection Fashion Cultures, this second anthology, Fashion Cultures Revisited, contains 26 newly commissioned chapters exploring fashion culture from the start of the new millennium to the present day. The book is divided into six parts, each discussing different aspects of fashion culture:

    • Shopping, spaces and globalisation
    • Changing imagery, changing media
    • Altered landscapes, new modes of production
    • Icons and their legacies
    • Contestation, compliance, feminisms
    • Making masculinities

    Fashion Cultures Revisited explores every facet of contemporary fashion culture and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping .Consequently it is an ideal companion to those interested in fashion studies, cultural studies, art, film, fashion history, sociology and gender studies.

    Introduction  Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson  Part 1: Shopping, Spaces and Globalisation  Chapter 1. A New World Order? Fashion and its capitals in the 21st Century  David Gilbert  Chapter 2.  Branding Brazilian Fashion: Global Visibility and Intercultural Perspectives  Nick Rees-Roberts and Silvano Mendes  Chapter 3.  India and Fashion’s new Geography  Clare Wilkinson-Weber  Chapter 4.  A New Fashion Capital: Shanghai  Armida de la Garza and Peng Ding  Chapter 5. Sydney Style: Camping it up in the Emerald City  Sally Gray  Part 2: Changing Imagery, Changing Media  Chapter 6.  Yesterday’s Emblems and Tomorrow’s Commodities: the Return of the Repressed in Fashion Imagery Today  Caroline Evans  Chapter 7.  Digital Fashion Film  Gary Needham  Chapter 8. Personal fashion blogs: Screens and mirrors in digital self-portraits  Agnes Rocamora  Chapter 9.  Styling The Street – Fashion Performance, Stardom And Neo-Dandyism In Street Style Blogs  Monica Titton  Chapter 10.  Exhibition-making: A Conversation  Christopher Breward and Judith Clark  Part 3: Altered Landscapes, New Modes of Production Chapter 11.  Fashion Photography in the Seventies  Alistair O’Neill  Chapter 12.  Escaping to reality: fashion photography in the 1990s  Elliott Smedley  Chapter 13.  Fashioning indie: the consecration of a subculture and the emergence of "stylish" femininity  Rachel Lifter  Chapter 14.  Capitalism’s Favourite Child: The Production of Fashion  Adam Briggs  Chapter 15.  Tailoring and tweed: mapping the spaces of ‘slow fashion'  Louise Crewe  Part 4: Icons and their Legacies  Chapter 16.  The "fashion arts", Jean Michel Frank, Elsa Schiaparelli and the interwar aesthetic project  Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello  Chapter 17.  The Pink Suit  Stella Bruzzi  Chapter 18.  Fab lesbianism and family values: costuming of lesbian identities in The L Word and The Kids are Alright  Fiona Cox  Chapter 19.  Fashion as mythology: considering the legacy of Alexander McQueen  Nathalie Khan  Part 5: Contestation, Compliance, Feminisms  Chapter 20.  Fashion, Feminism and the Neo-Feminist Ideal: From Coco Chanel to Jennifer Lopez  Hilary Radner and Natalie Smith  Chapter 21.  New Clothes, New Faces, New Bodies: Cosmetic Surgery and Fashion  Meredith Jones  Chapter 22.  Female slenderness and the case of perverse compliant deception – or why size matters …  Lorraine Gamman  Chapter 23.  Hijab stories: choice, politics, fashion  Reina Lewis  Chapter 24.  Fashion, fears and ageing: contradictions and complexity across the media  Pamela Church Gibson  Part 6: Making Masculinities  Chapter 25.  ‘Heroes and villains: when men wear makeup’  Janice Miller  Chapter 26.  The Italian Job: Football, Fashion and that Sarong  Stella Bruzzi  Chapter 27.  Vampire Dandies: fashionable masculine identities and style in popular culture  Vicki Karaminas Chapter 28.  "I’m saving the world, I need a decent shirt": masculinity and sexuality in the new Doctor Who  Claire Jenkins  Chapter 29.  Suiting up and stripping off: The Male Makeover  Lauren Thompson


    Stella Bruzzi is Professor of Film and Television Studies at the University of Warwick and

    Fellow of the British Academy. Her publications include Undressing Cinema: Clothing

    and Identity in the Movies (1997), New Documentary (2000 and 2006), Bringing Up

    Daddy: Fatherhood and Masculinity in Post-war Hollywood (2005) and Men’s Cinema:

    Masculinity and Mise-en-scene in Hollywood (2013). She is currently writing Approximation:

    Documentary, History and the Staging of Reality, the culmination of a Leverhulme Major

    Research Fellowship due to be published by Routledge in 2015.


    Pamela Church Gibson is Reader in Cultural and Historical Studies at the London College

    of Fashion, University of the Arts London. She is Principal Editor of the journal Film,

    Fashion and Consumption and has published widely on film, fashion and gender. Her

    publications include The Oxford Guide to Film Studies (1998), More Dirty Looks: Gender,

    Power, Pornography (2004) and Fashion and Celebrity Culture (2012). In 2012 she helped to

    found the European Popular Culture Association and was its first President. Her forthcoming

    project will examine the history of the fashion documentary.

    "Fashion Cultures Revisited constitutes an important contribution to the ever-growing body of fashion and dress literature by providing a conceptually underpinned bird’s-eye view of the subject. Hopefully the editors will pay another visit to the culture of fashion in a decade, as it will not only be fascinating to see what shapes it will take, but also who will analyse these, taking into account the rising number of fashion scholars coming out of an education dedicated to the subject, rather than the many different disciplinary heads that have made the theorization of fashion what it is today, refl ected so well in the present anthology." - Renate Strauss, Royal College of Art