Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe: 1st Edition (Hardback) book cover

Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe

1st Edition

Edited by Ilaria Porciani


240 pages | 22 B/W Illus.

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Hardback: 9780367234157
pub: 2019-11-28
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Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe contends that food is a fundamental element of heritage, and a particularly important one in times of crisis. Arguing that food, taste, cuisine, and gastronomy are crucial markers of identity that are inherently connected to constructions of place, tradition and the past, the book demonstrates how they play a role in intangible, as well as tangible, heritage.

Featuring contributions from experts working across Europe and beyond, and adopting a strong historical and transnational perspective, the book examines the various ways in which food can be understood and used as heritage. Including explorations of imperial spaces, migrations and diasporas; the role of commercialisation processes; and institutional practices within the political and cultural domains, the volume considers all aspects of this complex issue. Arguing that the various European cuisines are the result of exchanges, hybridities, and complex historical processes, Porciani and the chapter authors offer up a new way of deconstructing banal nationalism and of moving away from the idea of static identities.

Suggesting a new and different approach to the idea of so-called national cuisines, Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe will be a compelling read for academic audiences in museum and heritage studies, cultural and food studies, anthropology and history.

Chapters 1, 2, 4, 6 and 12 of this book are available for free in PDF format as Open Access from the individual product page at They have been made available under a Creative Commons Attribution-Non Commercial-No Derivatives 4.0 license.

Table of Contents

  1. Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe
  2. Ilaria Porciani

    Part I: Heritagization and Political Uses of Food

  3. Heritage and Food History. A Critical Assessment
  4. Laura di Fiore

  5. Tradition, Heritage, and Intellectual Property in the Global Food Market
  6. Fabio Parasecoli

  7. Food and Locality. Heritagization and Commercial Use of the Past
  8. Paolo Capuzzo

  9. In the Kitchens of ‘68. The Impact of Student Protest and Counter-Culture on Attitudes towards Food Marica Tolomelli
  10. A Place at the Table? Food in Museums as an ‘Ersatz Politics’ of Difficulty
  11. Susannah Eckersley

    Part II: Contact Zones and Exchanges

  12. A Taste for Diversity
  13. Massimo Montanari

  14. Francis Joseph's Tafelspitz. The Austro-Hungarian Cooking as an Imperial Project
  15. Catherine Horel

  16. Images, Perceptions and Authenticity in Ottoman-Turkish Cuisine
  17. Özge Samancı

  18. Station Buffets and Universal Exhibitions. Places of Mobility for Crossing Food Cultures
  19. Jean-Pierre Williot

  20. Canteens, Cafes and Cabarets. The Food Culture of the Russian Diaspora in Shanghai, 1920–1950 Katya Knyazeva
  21. Conclusion. Careful with Heritage

Ilaria Porciani and Massimo Montanari

About the Editor

Ilaria Porciani is a Professor in the Department of History and Cultures at the University of Bologna in Italy. Professor Porciani teaches modern and contemporary history and has published extensively on cultural, intellectual and gender history, the history of the historiography, nationalism, museums, public history and, most recently, on food as heritage.

About the Series

Critical Heritages of Europe

The Critical Heritages of Europe series seeks to explore the cultural and social politics of the European past in the present. Bridging theoretical and empirical research, the series accommodates broad understandings of Europe – a shifting and historically mutable entity, made both of internal tensions and exogenous encounters, re-imaginings and influences. ‘Heritage’ too is taken as an expansive paradigm, made in myriad practices where the past is valorised for the present, from folk traditions to museums and memorials, the management of historic sites and traditions, and everyday matters such as education, political discourse, home life, food consumption and people’s relations with place.

Books in the series engage with European heritages in critical times – in all senses – when Europe and mobilizations of its heritages and memories are called upon to solve problems, and when contests over the meanings of the past are part of wider social and political relations and tensions. Heritage practices are variously informed by civil and uncivil visions, the politics of difference and co-presence, difficult pasts, relations with the ‘outside’, borders, margins, and migrations. Critical questions include:

  • What is the European past made to do in the present and for the future?
  • What counts as European heritage? To whom, and why?
  • How and why do relationships with, and attitudes to, the past inform identity positions, social orders and moral values in, or in relation to, Europe?
  • When and where in the (wider) world do European heritages configure identities?
  • What are the contemporary meanings and effects of global encounters, mobilities and trajectories in which Europe has played roles?
  • What theoretical and critical perspectives can be articulated to contribute new understandings of European heritages? How might these be made relevant for current and future heritage practice?
  • What are the relations between theory, criticality, ethics and heritage practice in the European dimension?

Learn more…

Subject Categories

BISAC Subject Codes/Headings:
COOKING / General
COOKING / History
COOKING / Regional & Ethnic / European
HISTORY / Europe / General
LANGUAGE ARTS & DISCIPLINES / Library & Information Science / General
SOCIAL SCIENCE / Anthropology / Cultural
SOCIAL SCIENCE / Customs & Traditions
SOCIAL SCIENCE / Popular Culture