Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe  book cover
1st Edition

Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe

Edited By

Ilaria Porciani

ISBN 9781032086101
Published June 30, 2021 by Routledge
236 Pages 22 B/W Illustrations

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Book Description

Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe contends that food is a fundamental element of heritage, and a particularly important one in times of crisis. Arguing that food, taste, cuisine and gastronomy are crucial markers of identity that are inherently connected to constructions of place, tradition and the past, the book demonstrates how they play a role in intangible, as well as tangible, heritage.

Featuring contributions from experts working across Europe and beyond, and adopting a strong historical and transnational perspective, the book examines the various ways in which food can be understood and used as heritage. Including explorations of imperial spaces, migrations and diasporas; the role of commercialisation processes, and institutional practices within political and cultural domains, this volume considers all aspects of this complex issue. Arguing that the various European cuisines are the result of exchanges, hybridities and complex historical processes, Porciani and the chapter authors offer up a new way of deconstructing banal nationalism and of moving away from the idea of static identities.

Suggesting a new and different approach to the idea of so-called national cuisines, Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe will be a compelling read for academic audiences in museum and heritage studies, cultural and food studies, anthropology and history.

Chapters 1,2,4,6 and 12 of this book are available for free in PDF format as Open Access from the individual product page at They have been made available under a Creative Commons Attribution-Non Commercial-No Derivatives 4.0 license

Table of Contents


  1. Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe
  2. Ilaria Porciani

    Part I: Heritagization and Political Uses of Food

  3. Heritage and Food History. A Critical Assessment
  4. Laura di Fiore

  5. Tradition, Heritage, and Intellectual Property in the Global Food Market
  6. Fabio Parasecoli

  7. Food and Locality. Heritagization and Commercial Use of the Past
  8. Paolo Capuzzo

  9. In the Kitchens of ‘68. The Impact of Student Protest and Counter-Culture on Attitudes towards Food Marica Tolomelli
  10. A Place at the Table? Food in Museums as an "Ersatz Politics" of Difficulty
  11. Susannah Eckersley

    Part II: Contact Zones and Exchanges

  12. A Taste for Diversity
  13. Massimo Montanari

  14. Francis Joseph's Tafelspitz. The Austro–Hungarian Cooking as an Imperial Project
  15. Catherine Horel

  16. Images, Perceptions and Authenticity in Ottoman–Turkish Cuisine
  17. Özge Samanci

  18. Station Buffets and Universal Exhibitions. Places of Mobility for Crossing Food Cultures
  19. Jean-Pierre Williot

  20. Canteens, Cafes and Cabarets. The Food Culture of the Russian Diaspora in Shanghai, 1920–1950 Katya Knyazeva
  21. Conclusion. Careful with Heritage

Ilaria Porciani and Massimo Montanari

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Ilaria Porciani teaches modern and contemporary history at the University of Bologna. She has published widely on the history of education, culture, the university, historiography and nation-building, often incorporating a gender approach. Her present research interests focus on public history, history museums and food history.


'The book is announcedly transnational.'

Susan H. Gordon, MFA, Forbes