1st Edition

Insubordinate Costume Inspiring Performance

Edited By Susan Marshall Copyright 2025
240 Pages 105 Color Illustrations
by Focal Press

240 Pages 105 Color Illustrations
by Focal Press

240 Pages 105 Color Illustrations
by Focal Press

Insubordinate Costume: Inspiring Performance presents a comprehensive study of historical and contemporary examples of scenographic costume – the type of costume that creates an almost complete stage environment by itself, simultaneously acting as costume, set and performance. This book provides readers with an overview of the costumes, designers, context and theory that have contributed to... Read more

Part 1: Insubordinate Beginnings

1. Insubordinate Beginnings

Susan Marshall

2. Dance, Performance Art and Insubordinate Costume

Susan Marshall

Part 2: Blurring the boundaries between theatre, dance, performance art and fashion

3. Blurring the boundaries between theatre, dance, performance art and fashion

Susan Marshall

4. Contemporary Runways, Contemporary Costumes

Felix Choong

Part 3: The insubordinate here and now

5. The insubordinate here and now

Susan Marshall 

6. On creating costume generated performances

Christina Lindgren

7. Listening with costume – a material-discursive practice

Charlotte Østergaard

8. Researching with and through Costume: Proposition for a Research Framework

Sofia Pantouvaki

Part 4: The practitioners’ voice

9. The practitioners’ voice – edited interviews and contributions

Susan Marshall et al

Afterword. Can bad costumes do good things?

Rachel Hann

Biography

Susan Marshall is a costume designer, adjunct professor of Twentieth Century Fashion at FIT in Milan, Politecnico di Milano and lecturer in costume design at AFOL Moda Milan. Insubordinate Costume is based on her doctoral research at Goldsmiths University of London, which explored the pivotal role of costume in performance and the fundamental importance of play in the performers’ creative approach to the costumes.

"Comprehensive, richly illustrated, and intellectually engaging, this book will appeal to costume designers, choreographers, and performance artists alike. It not only celebrates the artistry of costume but also challenges readers to reconsider its potential as a form of spatial, material, and performative innovation."

K. Wagner, Western Michigan University, USA