This book conceives the role of the modern town as a crucial place for material and cultural circulations of luxury. It concentrates on a critical period of historical change, the long eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, that was marked by the passage from a society of scarcity to one of expenditure and accumulation, from ranks and orders to greater social mobility, from traditional aristocratic luxury to a new bourgeois and even democratic form of luxury. This volume recognizes the notion that luxury operated as a mechanism of social separation, but also that all classes aspired to engage in consumption at some level, thus extending the idea of what constituted luxury and blurring the boundaries of class and status, often in unsettling ways. It moves beyond the moral aspects of luxury and the luxury debates to analyze how the production, distribution, purchase or display of luxury goods could participate in the creation of autonomous selves and thus challenge gender roles.
Table of Contents
1. Luxury, Gender and the Urban Experience Marjo Kaartinen, Anne Montenach and Deborah Simonton Part I: Markets and Opportunities 2. Milliners and Marchandes de Modes: Gender, Luxury and Skill in the Workplace Deborah Simonton 3. Gender and Luxury in Eighteenth-Century Grenoble: From Legal Exchanges to Shadow Economy Anne Montenach 4. Women in Luxury Trades in Eighteenth-Century Copenhagen Carol Gold 5. Feminisation and the Luxury of Visual Art in London’s West End, 1860-1890 Kemille Moore Part II: Metropole and Province 6. Men, Women and the Supply of Luxury Goods in Eighteenth-Century England: The Purchasing Patterns of Edward and Mary Leigh Jon Stobart and Mark Rothery 7. The Luxury Shopping Experience of the Swedish Aristocracy in Eighteenth-Century Paris Johanna Ilmakunnas 8. Gender, Luxury and Fashion in Eighteenth-Century Barcelona Belen Moreno Claverías 9. Gender, Craftwork and the Exotic in International Exhibitions c. 1880-1910 Stana Nenadic Part III: Class and Status 10. A Feminine Luxury in Paris: Marie-Fortunée d’Este, Princesse de Conti (1731-1803) Aurélie Chatenet-Calyste 11. Favourites of Fortune: The Luxury Consumption of the Hackmans of Vyborg, 1790-1825 Ulla Ijäs 12. The "Díszmagyar" as Representation in the Andrássy Family in Late Nineteenth-Century Budapest Zsuzsa Sidó 13. The Luxury They Could Not Afford?: Households of Workers in the Industrial Town of Drammen, Norway c. 1900 Hanne Marie Johansen Afterword Anne Montenach, Marjo Kaartinen and Deborah Simonton
Deborah Simonton is an associate professor of British History at the University of Southern Denmark, Fellow of the Royal Historical Society and a visiting professor at the University of Turku, Finland.
Marjo Kaartinen is a professor of cultural history at the University of Turku and the director of the Turku Centre for Medieval and Early Modern Studies.
Anne Montenach is an associate professor of early modern history at Aix-Marseille University, CNRS, UMR 7303 TELEMME (13094 Aix-en-Provence, France).
‘The Danish funding agencies have every reason to be pleased with their decision to invest money in the network Gender in the European Town, and the editors have done a very good job in recruiting scholars from all over Europe. I strongly recommend these volumes to a wide audience.’ - Maria Ågren, Uppsala, L'Homme