1st Edition

Made Up: A History of Identity and Gender Expression Through Makeup and Style

By Charli Butterfield Copyright 2025
    224 Pages 44 Color Illustrations
    by Focal Press

    224 Pages 44 Color Illustrations
    by Focal Press

    Made Up: A History of Identity and Gender Expression Through Makeup and Style explores historical and modern uses of makeup for self-expression, with a focus on gender.

    The book begins by exploring the historical influences in the origins and development of makeup across genders, providing a whistle-stop tour of gendered adornment through time. The chapters that follow explore more specific topics that provide context for a range of influences on self-expression:

    • Sex, gender and identity, including introductory gender theory and terminology relevant to the topic.
    • Restrictions and resistance faced by the queer community regarding expression, with a historical look at pioneers of the movement.
    • Gendered cosmetic advertisements through time.
    • Subcultures and coded expression.
    • Beauty and identity in the digital age.
    • The impact of global ideals on the cosmetics market, with a focus on South Korea, exploring historical and modern influences and trends.

    The book can be explored in a sequential or non-sequential order, as each chapter provides a standalone approach to a topic and concludes with questions to encourage further contemplation and research.

    This book is written for anyone interested in the history of makeup as a vehicle for self-expression, and how gender comes into play; students and teachers of Theatrical makeup and Fashion courses, makeup artists, makeup enthusiasts, and those curious to discover what Ancient Egyptians and emos may have in common (spoiler: it’s not snakebites).

    1. Adorned – An Abridged History of Gendered Makeup & Style  2. Sex, Gender & Identity  3. Restrictions & Resistance  4. Gendered Advertising  5. Subcultural Style - Not Just a Phase  6. Beauty 2.0 - Expression and Identity In The Digital Age  7. Borderless Beauty & The Korean Wave


    Charli Butterfield is a makeup artist and lecturer specialising in the history of makeup and creative makeup practice. With an MA in art history and background in gender studies, alongside over a decade of experience working with creative makeup brands, Charli is an enthusiastic champion of self-expression and teaches across a range of disciplines on subcultures, global beauty trends and identity through makeup and style.