Men's Tailoring : Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 book cover
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Men's Tailoring
Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950





ISBN 9781138336803
Published August 16, 2019 by Routledge
474 Pages 182 Color & 155 B/W Illustrations

 
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Book Description

Men’s Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains:

  • step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries;

  • drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat;

  • patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections.

From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances.

Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

CHAPTER 1: GETTING STARTED

CHAPTER 2: THE BLOCK DRAFTS and DIAGRAMS

CHAPTER 3: INLAYS, ALLOWANCES and CLOTH

CHAPTER 4: CUTTING OUT and MARKING UP

CHAPTER 5: PREPARING FOR THE FITTING and the FITTING PROCESS

CHAPTER 6: MAKING UP THE WAISTCOAT

CHAPTER 7: MAKING UP THE TROUSERS

CHAPTER 8: MAKING UP THE JACKET

CHAPTER 9: MAKING UP THE SLEEVES, COLLAR, BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES and FINISHING

CHAPTER 10: 19TH CENTURY BODY COATS

CHAPTER 11: ORIGINAL GARMENTS: PATTERNS, PHOTOGRAPHS and MEASUREMENTS

INDEX

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Author(s)

Biography

Graham Cottenden is a costumier, tailor, and historian who graduated from the Wimbledon School of Art in 1975 and later gained a master’s degree from Middlesex University. He was a freelance costume maker in London for 20 years working in theatre, film, television and museums before becoming an educator. He has taught students and professionals in the UK and around the world, including Europe, USA, Scandinavia, Brazil, Australia and Hong Kong.