Men’s Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains:
- step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries;
- drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat;
- patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections.
From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances.
Table of Contents
CHAPTER 1: GETTING STARTED
CHAPTER 2: THE BLOCK DRAFTS and DIAGRAMS
CHAPTER 3: INLAYS, ALLOWANCES and CLOTH
CHAPTER 4: CUTTING OUT and MARKING UP
CHAPTER 5: PREPARING FOR THE FITTING and the FITTING PROCESS
CHAPTER 6: MAKING UP THE WAISTCOAT
CHAPTER 7: MAKING UP THE TROUSERS
CHAPTER 8: MAKING UP THE JACKET
CHAPTER 9: MAKING UP THE SLEEVES, COLLAR, BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES and FINISHING
CHAPTER 10: 19TH CENTURY BODY COATS
CHAPTER 11: ORIGINAL GARMENTS: PATTERNS, PHOTOGRAPHS and MEASUREMENTS
Graham Cottenden is a costumier, tailor, and historian who graduated from the Wimbledon School of Art in 1975 and later gained a master’s degree from Middlesex University. He was a freelance costume maker in London for 20 years working in theatre, film, television and museums before becoming an educator. He has taught students and professionals in the UK and around the world, including Europe, USA, Scandinavia, Brazil, Australia and Hong Kong.