This collection brings together primary sources on the British textile industry across the long nineteenth-century, a subject that is both global and multidisciplinary. This set provides an extensive range of resources on the calico printing industry, textile warehousing and shipping, and textile waste and recycling.
The British Waste Textile Industries
Edited by Philip A. Sykas
Volume 1
List of Images
Timeline
General Introduction
Introduction – volume 1
References
Part 1. ‘A credit to the age’: The utilisation of waste
1. Peter Lund Simmonds, ‘On the Utilization of Waste Substances’, Journal of the Society of Arts, 7 (325), 11 Feb 1859, pp. 175-88, and ‘On the Useful Application of Waste Products and Undeveloped Substances’, Journal of the Society of Arts, 17 (846), 5 Feb 1869, pp. 171, 177-78.
2. C. W. Leather, ‘Utilization of Waste Products’, Journal of the Textile Institute, 8 (1), Mar 1917, pp. 9-19.
Part 2. Hard labour: Tow and oakum
3. Henry Mayhew and John Binny, ‘House of Correction, Coldbath Fields: Oakum Picking’, ‘Of the Interior of Tothill Fields Prison’, and ‘The Female Work and Work-rooms at Tothill Fields Prison’, in The Criminal Prisons of London and Scenes of Prison Life (London: Charles Griffin and Co., 1862), pp. 310-13, 400-02, 476-7.
4. Charles Newton Pickworth, (ed.) ‘The Manufacture of Oakum: A Little-known Branch of the Textile Industry’ Textile Manufacturer, 52 (618), 15 Jun 1926, pp. 201-2.
5. Marshall and Co., Leeds. Notebook: Processes. 1826-29: ‘Carding’ and ‘Tow Preparing’, pp. 10-14, 18. Unpublished manuscript. Brotherton Library, University of Leeds.
6. Peter Sharp, ‘Tow Carding’ and "Tow Preparing", Flax, Tow, and Jute Spinning: A handbook containing information on the various branches of these trades, 2nd ed. (Dundee: James P. Mathew & Co., 1886), pp. 97-100,107-8.
Part 3. The ‘low wools’: Shoddy and mungo
7. Sir George Head, ‘Dewsbury’ in A Home Tour through the various Manufacturing Districts of
8. Ferrar Fenton, ‘Woollen Shoddy. Its Invention, History, and Manufacture, The Textile Manufacturer, 7 (76-82), Apr-Oct 1881, pp. 131-2, 172-3, 208-9, 251-2, 287-9, 328-9, 385-7.
9. Roberts Beaumont, ‘Wool Substitutes’, in Woollen and Worsted Cloth Manufacture: Being a Practical Treatise for the Use of Persons Employed in the Manipulation of Textile Fabrics (London: George Bell and Sons, 1888), pp. 16-21, and Roberts Beaumont, ‘Mungo and Shoddy’ in Wool Substitutes (London: Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, 1922), pp. 30-45.
10. William A. Bercry and Granville A. Ellis (eds), The Century’s Progress: Yorkshire. Progress. Commerce 1893 (London: The London Printing & Engraving Co., 1893), pp. 106, 157, 198, 216.
11. Alexander S. Cook, Old-Time Traders and Their Ways (Aberdeen: William Smith, Bon-Accord Press, 1904), pp. 62-3.
12. Howard Priestman, ‘"Pulled" Wool or Shoddy’, Waste Trade World, 2 (12), 18 Jan 1913, pp. 16-17; and 2 (18), 1 Mar 1913, p. 19.
Part 4. The waste of one is the raw material of the next: Cotton waste
13. ‘About Cotton Waste’ The Waste Trade World, 1 (1), 4 May 1912, p. 13 and ‘The Disposal of Shoddy Dirt: A Boon to Cotton Waste Willowers’, Waste Trade World, 2 (6), 7 Dec 1912, p. 8.
14. W. P. Crankshaw, ‘Famous Bolton Cotton Fabrics’, in ‘Industrial Bolton: the Crompton Centenary Supplement’, Textile Manufacturer, 53 (Jun 1927), pp. 29-41.
15. John Howard Nodal, (ed.) ‘The Shoddy Exchange, Manchester’, The Sphinx, 1 (6), 29 Aug 1868, p. 49 and James F. Hitchman, (ed.) ‘Cotton Waste Dealers’ Exchange’, Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser, 11 Mar 1869, p. 4.
16. Eli Sowerbutts, The Cotton Waste Dealers’ Directory. Being a Complete List of Waste Dealers, and of all other Trades Connected Therewith. Arranged in Alphabetical Order, and in Towns forReady Reference (Manchester: Abel Heywood & Son, 1882), pp. 3-35.
17. Richard Edwards and William Augustus Bercry, (eds.) Manchester of To-day. An Epitome of Results. Business Men and Commercial Interests. Wealth and Growth. Historical, Statistical, Biographical (London: Historical Publishing Company, 1888), pp. 120, 137, 142, 157, 168, 172.
18. Joseph Nasmith, ‘Waste Spinning’ in The Student’s Cotton Spinning (Manchester: Joseph Nasmith; John Heywood, 1892), pp. 377-87.
19. Richard Marsden, (ed.) ‘The Preparation and Spinning of Barchant or Waste Yarns’, Textile Mercury, 1 (10), 29 Jun 1889, pp.178-9; 1 (35), 21 Dec 1889, pp. 628-9; and 1 (36), 28 Dec 1889, pp. 646-7.
20. Thomas Thornley, ‘Waste and Waste Spinning’ in Cotton Spinning (Honours, or Third Year), 2nd ed., (London: Scott, Greenwood & Son, 1901) pp. 200-11 and ‘The Use of Cotton Waste Yarns in Weaving’, Cotton Waste: Its Production, Manipulation and Uses (London: Scott, Greenwood & Son, 1912), pp. 232-40.
21. Henry Brougham Heylin, ‘Examples of Trading: Damp Cotton Waste’, Buyers and Sellers in the Cotton Trade, Being a Handbook for Merchants, Shippers, Manufacturers, and Others who are interested as Producers or Distributors (London: Charles Griffin & Co. Ltd., 1913), pp. 143-5.
22. Frank Nasmith, ‘The Utilization of Soft Cotton Waste’, Journal of the British Association of Managers of Textile Works (Lancashire Section), 7, 1915-16, pp. 49-60.
23. Sam Wakefield, ‘Waste and Production, Cost and Organisation in the Doubling Mill’, in Cotton Doubling and Twisting (Manchester, Marsden & Co. Ltd., 1917), pp. 6-15.
24. U. S. Dept of Commerce: Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce. Foreign Markets for Cotton Linters, Batting, and Waste. Special Consular Reports- No. 80. (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1918), pp. 39-46.
25. William C. Jones Ltd. Cotton Waste: A Study of a Great Lancashire Industry (Manchester: Charles W. Hobson, 1920), pp. 8-14.
Part 5. An ‘uninviting aggregation of rubbish’: Spun silk
26.William J. Claxton, ‘Waste Not, Want Not’ in Silk and the Silk Worker (Rambles in Our Industries series). (London & Glasgow: Blackie & Son, 1913), pp. 57-62.
27. James Burnley, ‘Fortunes Made in Business. XXII. Mr. S. C. Lister’, London Society: An Illustrated Magazine of Light and Amusing Literature for the Hours of Relaxation, 39 (230), Feb 1881, pp. 171-3, 177-81, 183-4
28. Samuel Cunliffe Lister, ‘The Silk Comb’, Lord Masham’s Inventions. Written by Himself (Bradford: The ‘Argus’ Printing Works; and London: Percy Lund, Humphries & Co., 1905), pp. 52-62.
29. Joseph Boden, ‘The Spun Silk Industry of England’ in: XXXIII Annual Report of the Silk Association of America, 1905, pp. 95-100.
30. Hollins Rayner, aka Filsoie (pseud.) ‘Silk Spinning: Silk wastes’, Textile Manufacturer, 27 (322), 15 Oct 1901, pp. 335-7; 27 (323), 15 Nov 1901, pp. 367-8; 29 (340), 15 Apr 1903, pp. 119-20.
Part 6. ‘Complete metamorphosis of the rag’: Rag flock
31. Henry Franklin Parsons, ‘Manufacture of Rag Flock and the Dissemination of Disease’, Textile Manufacturer, 13 (149), 15 Jun 1887, pp. 256-57 and ‘On the Manufacture of Rag Flock in Reference to the Possible Dissemination of Infectious Disease by this and other Products of Woollen Rags’, Fifteenth Annual Report of the Local Government Board, 1885-86. Supplement Containing the Report of the Medical Officer for 1885 (London: HMSO, 1886), Appendix A, No. 7, pp. 61-72.
32. Peter Fyfe, ‘What the People Sleep Upon’, in Various Lectures—1892-1904 (Glasgow: Corporation of Glasgow,, 1908), Lecture 9, pp. 1-11.
33. Paul N. Hasluck, ‘Upholsterers’ Materials’ in Upholstery, with Numerous Engravings and Eiagrams (London: Cassell and Co, 1904), pp. 15-17.
34. ‘Loathsome Bed "Stuffing"’, The Lancet a Journal of British and Foreign Medicine, Surgery, Obstetrics, Physiology, Chemistry, Pharmacology, Public Health, and News, 167 (4306), 10 Mar 1906, p. 690, 168 (4345), 8 Dec 1906, p. 1637, 168, (4348), 29 Dec 1906, p. 1834, 169 (4366), 4 May 1907, p. 1241, 169 (4368), 18 May 1907, p. 1406, 169 (4371), 8 Jun 1907, pp. 1584-5, 170 (4384), 7 Sep 1907, pp. 727-8, 170 (4385), 14 Sep 1907, pp. 812, 170 (4387) 28 Sep 1907, p. 941, ‘Filthy Wool-Flock Beds’, The Lancet, 169 (4353), 2 Feb 1907, pp. 309 and ‘The Bacteriology of "Loathsome Bed-Stuffing"’, The Lancet, 170 (4391), 26 Oct 1907, p. 1173.
35. Albert J. Ludlam, [attrib.] ‘The Inside of a Mattress. Rag Flock Production. Modern methods and machinery reviewed. Rag tearing and cleaning machines. Various kinds of flock described and illustrated’, The Cabinet Maker, 13 Dec 1924, pp. 524-5; 10 Jan 1925, pp. 52-3; 14 Feb 1925, pp. 408-9; 14 Mar 1925, pp. 656-7, 11 Apr 1925, pp. 46-7; 9 May 1925, pp. 264-5; 13 Jun 1925, pp. 522-3.
Part 7. Dolly shops and ‘things done with’
36. Charles Manby Smith, ‘Lint’, Chambers’s Journal of Popular Literature, Science and Arts, 23 (59), 17 Feb 1855, pp. 104-6.
37. Charles Manby Smith, ‘Revelations about Sacks’, Chambers’s Journal of Popular Literature, Science and Arts, 1 (1), 7 Jan 1854, pp. 14-16.
38. Andrew Wynter, ‘Old Clothes and What Becomes of Them’, The Times, (25020), 3 Nov 1864, p.6.
39. Clara L. Matéaux, ‘Things that are Done With’ in The Wonderland of Work (London: Cassell, Petter, Galpin and Co., 1881), 303-12.
Index
Volume II: The British Commercial Warehouse
List of Images
Timeline
General Introduction
Introduction – volume II
References
Part 1. Astonishing ‘stores of stuffs’: Evolution of the commercial warehouse
1. F. M. Hodson, (comp.), ‘Commerce’ in: Encyclopaedia Mancuniensis; or the New School of Arts, Science, and Manufactures; Being an Elementary Circle of the Sciences, and General Display of Useful Knowledge… (Manchester: J. Gleave, 1815), vol. 1, pp. 350-3.
2. J. S. Gregson, ‘Cannon-Street–The Old’, in: Gimcrackiana, or Fugitive Pieces on Manchester Men and Manners ten years ago (Manchester: Wilmot Henry Jones, 1833), pp. 9-20.
3. Benjamin Love, ‘Commercial Buildings’, in: The Hand-Book of Manchester; Containing Statistical and General Information on the Trade, Social Condition, and Institutions of the Metropolis of Manufactures: Being a Second and Enlarged Edition of "Manchester As It Is" (Manchester: Love and Barton, 1842), pp. 228-30.
4. John Wilks, ‘A Week at Manchester’, Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine, 45:282 (Apr 1839), extract, pp. 485-8.
5. Robert Lamb, ‘Manchester, by a Manchester Man’, Fraser’s Magazine for Town and Country, 47:282 (Jun 1853), extract, pp. 615-17.
6. James Lowe, ‘A Manchester Warehouse’, Household Words: a Weekly Journal, 9:215, (6 May 1854), pp. 268-72.
7. Robert Pollitt, (attrib.), ‘In a Manchester Warehouse: By an Utter Stranger to Business’, The Free Lance, 1 (15 Apr 1867), pp. 130-2.
8. Wakeford Brothers, Wakeford Brothers, Wholesale Cash Drapers and Manchester Warehousemen. Fancy Crewel, Cross-stitch, and Art Needlework Emporium…, (London: Wakeford Bros, c1885), pp. 1-4.
9. ‘Fancy Trade of Manchester: its Origin and Struggles’, British Textile Warehouseman, 4:30 (15 Nov 1889), pp. 984-5.
10. John Rylands and Sons, ‘Manchester List of Departments’ in: Rylands and Sons Limited, 55 Wood Street, London, E.C.; and at Manchester and Liverpool (Manchester: Rylands and Sons, 1908), pp. 42-45.
Part 2. Trading floor and counting house: The daily routine
11. Samuel Bamford, Samuel. Early Days (London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co.,1849), pp. 276-82, 307-11.
12. Benjamin Love, ‘The Mercantile Community of Manchester’, in: The Hand-Book of Manchester; Containing Statistical and General Information on the Trade, Social Condition, and Institutions of the Metropolis of Manufactures: Being a Second and Enlarged Edition of "Manchester As It Is" (Manchester: Love and Barton, 1842), pp. 83-7.
13. Louis M. Hayes, Reminiscences of Manchester, and Some of its Local Surroundings from the Year 1840 (London and Manchester: Sherratt and Hughes, 1905), pp. 131-5.
14. Henry S. Gibbs, Autobiography of a Manchester Cotton Manufacturer; or, Thirty Years’ Experience of Manchester (Manchester and London: John Heywood, 1887). pp. 64-75.
15. S. & J. Watts and Co. List of salaried staff by department, around 1845-1855.
16. Letter 58: John Munn and Co. to Mr Webster, 20 May 1854, from William Pearson’s Copy Letter Book.
17. W. R. Drennan, ‘Manchester Warehouses’, Chambers’s Journal of Popular Literature, Science and Arts, 4th ser., 3:107 (13 Jan 1866), pp. 22-4.
18. Mortimer, John. ‘A Manchester Home-Trade Warehouse’, The Sphinx: A Journal of Humour and Criticism, 1:17 (14 Nov 1868), pp. 129-30.
19. John Munn and Co. to Sam Mendel, 22 Nov 1872. Munn & Co. Private Letter Book (Mar 1871-July 1873).
20. John H. Nodal, (ed.), ‘Warehouse Slang’, The Sphinx: A Journal of Humour and Criticism, 2:66 (13 Nov 1869), p. 264.
Part 3. Trade palaces: The setting for commerce
21. Henry G. Duffield, ‘The Warehouses &c.’, The Pocket Companion; or Strangers’ Guide to Manchester, and Salford, Containing Information on Every Subject Interesting to the Stranger and Visitor (Manchester: C. Duffield, 1851), pp. 3, 23-29.
22. A. W. Paulton, (ed.) ‘New Warehouses’, The Manchester Examiner and Times, 5 Nov 1853, pp. 4-5.
23. ‘Manchester Architecture. II.- Present’ and ‘III.- Future’, The Sphinx: A Journal of Humour and Criticism, 2:57 (11 Sep 1869), p. 194; and 2:59 (25 Sep 1869), pp. 210-11.
24. John Roberton, ‘The Arrangement of Warehouses’, The Builder, 18:915 (18 Aug 1860), pp. 5212-3.
25. Joseph Brierley, ‘Access to London Warehouses’, The Builder, 24:1243 (1 Dec 1866), p. 891.
26. George Godwin (ed.) ‘A Manchester Warehouse: Messrs. A. Collie & Co.’s’, The Builder, 26:1334 (29 Aug 1868), pp. 640-1.
27. John Mortimer, John. ‘The Business Streets…’, Henry Bannerman & Sons Limited Diary and Buyers’ Guide 1896. Mercantile Manchester: Past and Present (Manchester: Palmer, Howe & Co., 1896), pp. 94-113.
Part 4. Fire! Fire! Fire!: A risky business
28. James Harrop (ed.) Manchester Mercury, Tuesday, 11 Feb 1812, p.4.
29. Louis M. Hayes, ‘On Fires (No. 1)’ and ‘On Fires (No. 2), Reminiscences of Manchester and Some of its Local Surroundings from the Year 1840 (London & Manchester: Sherratt & Hughes, 1905), pp. 15-21.
30. Benjamin Love, Manchester As It Is: or, Notices of the Institutions, Manufactures, Commerce, Railways, etc. of the Metropolis of Manufactures: Interspersed with Much Valuable Information Useful for the Resident and Stranger. With Numerous Steel Engravings and a Map (Manchester: Love and Barton. London: W.S. Orr and Co., and Ball, Arnold, and Co., 1839), pp. 150-4.
31. Joseph Perrin, The Manchester Handbook, An Authentic Account of the Place and its People (Manchester: Hale and Roworth, and London: Whittaker and Co., 1857), pp.49-51.
32. Jeremiah Garnett, (ed.) ‘Serious Fire at a Waste Warehouse. £7,000 Damage’, Manchester Guardian, 11 Jan 1861, p. 3. Sowler, Robert Scarr (ed.) ‘Conflagration in a Cotton Waste Warehouse’, Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser, 12 Jan 1861, p. 7.
33. "Great Fires" The Warehousemen and Drapers’ Trade Journal, 3, 21 Feb 1874, p. 81.
34. Alfred Tozer, ‘"Bruce," The Manchester Fire Horse’, Hardwicke’s Science-Gossip, 14, 1878, pp. 202-3.
35. Henry Dunckley (ed.) ‘Great Fire in Manchester. Warehouses Destroyed. Gallant Rescue’, Manchester Weekly Times, 14 Nov 1885, p. 5. Milners Safe Co. Ltd. ‘Great Fire in Manchester. Eight Milner’s Safes Recovered from the Ruins. Testimonials already received’, Manchester Evening News, 19 Nov 1885, p. 1.
36. Ablett, W. H. (as told by John Brill Ablett). ‘Reminiscences of an Old Draper’, The Warehousemen and Drapers’ Trade Journal, 1:3 (15 May 1872), pp.53-54; and 1:4 (1 Jun 1872), p.79.
37. Cook, A. S. ‘Damaged by Fire and Water’, Old-Time Traders and Their Ways (Aberdeen: William Smith, Bon-Accord Press, 1904), pp. 77-8.
Anderson, J. ‘Caution. Five Pounds Reward’, Aberdeenshire Press and Journal, 20 Aug 1845, p. 3.
Anderson, J. ‘Great Fire in London’, Aberdeenshire Press and Journal, 18 Nov 1840, p. 2.
38. C. A. Linstow, ‘The Insurance of Textile Works’, Journal of the British Association of Managers of Textile Works (Lancashire Section), Session 1916-17, 8 (1917), pp. 98-106.
Part 5. Merchant aristocracy: Sketches of mercantile lives
39. C. Hadfield, (ed.) ‘The Origin, Rise and Progress of the Principal Manchester Firms’, Manchester City News, 2:1-2:22 (Jan-Jun 1865). Extracts from ‘Introduction’, 2:2 (14 Jan 1865), p. 2; ‘I. Kershaw, Leese’, 2:3 (21 Jan 1865), p. 2 and 2:4 (28 Jan 1865), p. 3; ‘IV. S. & J. Watts & Co.’, 2:9 (4 Mar 1865), p. 2 and 2:10 (11 Mar 1865), pp. 2-3; ‘V. Rylands’, 2:13 (1 Apr 1865), pp. 2-3; ‘VI. Rylands & Sons’, 2:14 (8 Apr 1865), pp.2-3 and 2:15 (15 Apr 1865), pp. 2-3; ‘VII. Bannerman & Sons’, 2:16 (22 Apr 1865), p. 3 and 2:17 (29 Apr 1865), p. 3
40. James Dawson Burn, ‘Glasgow’, Commercial Enterprise and Social Progress; or, gleanings in London, Sheffield, Glasgow, and Dublin (London: Piper, Stephenson, and Spence, 1858), pp. 101-14.
41. D. Puseley, The Commercial Companion and Peerage of Commerce, for the United Kingdom; Record of Eminent Commercial Houses and Men of the Day, 2nd ed. (London: Warren & Co., 1860), pp. 12, 22, 28, 32, 38, 51, 66-7, 81, 114, 155-6, 177.
42. James Hogg, (ed.) ‘Fortunes Made in Business. Copestake, Hughes, Crampton & Co.’, London Society: An Illustrated Magazine of Light and Amusing Literature for the Hours of Relaxation, 35:283 (Mar 1879), pp. 225-32.
43. ‘Our Temples of Trade’, ‘Messrs. Leaf and Co.’, ‘Bradbury, Greatorex and Co.’, British Textile Warehouseman, 2:6 (15 Nov 1887), pp. 126-27, suppl. v-vii; and 2:9 (20 Feb 1888), pp. 212-13.
44. T. G. Ramsay, (ed.) ‘Historical Firms. Messrs. Stewart & Ma cDonald. Glasgow’, British Textile Warehouseman: the Monthly Review of the Drapery Trade, 4:29 (15 Oct 1889), pp. 950-1.
45. Bercry, W. A. and Ellis, G. A. (eds.) ‘S. & J. Watts & Co., Manufacturers, Merchants, and General Warehousemen’, The Century’s Progress: Lancashire (London: London Printing and Engraving Co., 1892), pp. 88-9.
Part 6. Home trade and shipping trade: Merchants, middlemen and foreigners
46. Benjamin Tabart, (ed.) ‘The Merchant’, The Book of English Trades and Library of the Useful Arts. With Seventy Engravings, 7th ed. (London: J. Souter at the Juvenile Library, 1818), pp. iii-iv, 250-5.
47. J. R. McCulloch, ‘Factor’, A Dictionary, Practical, Theoretical, and Historical, of Commerce and Commercial Navigation, 2nd ed. (London: Longmans, Rees, Orme, Brown, Green and Longmans, 1834), pp.568-73.
48. Elijah Helm, ‘The Middleman in Commerce’, Transactions of the Manchester Statistical Society, Session 1900-1901, pp. 55-65.
49. John Scholes, ‘The Merchant Who Shall be a Foreigner in the City of Manchester, consecutively given from 1784 to 1870’. Manchester Archives, Ms.ff382 S35, pp. 13, 21-3, 25, 42-5, 48, and 260-1.
50. A. W. Hosking, Hosking’s Guide to the Manchester Trade (Manchester: Albert W. Hosking, 1877), pp. 125-7. ‘The Manchester Shipping Trade’, pp. 1-16.
51. James Burnley, ‘Fortunes Made in Business. Messrs. A. & S. Henry & Co.’, London Society: An Illustrated Magazine of Light and Amusing Literature for the Hours of Relaxation, 38: 227 (Nov 1880), 446-62.
52. J. M. Hause, English Methods of Dyeing, Finishing, and Marketing Cotton Goods. Special Agents Series No. 56. (Washington, Government Printing Office, 1912), pp. 5-10.
53. A. M. Samuel, ‘How Goods are Paid For’, in Sheldrake, Thomas Swinborne (ed.) Exporting and Shipping, Harmsworth Business Library (London: Educational Book Company Ltd., 1911), pp. 141-54.
Part 7. Making up and marking up: Commercial etiquette
54. P. A. Nemnich, Description of a journey performed in the summer of 1799, from Hamburg, to and through England in: Garnett, Jeremiah (ed.), ‘Local Gleanings. No. 6 Manchester and its fabrics in the last century’, Manchester Guardian, 21 Apr 1849, p. 9; and ‘Local Gleanings. No. 7. Manchester in 1799’, Manchester Guardian, 28 Apr 1849, p. 8.
55. Owen Owens and Son. Operational records: Packing book, late 1830s, and Packing book, 1837-39. Unpublished manuscript.
56. Leach, William & Co., ‘Remarks from Calcutta’ in: Contract Book, 1842, pp. 1, 27, 53, 71, 181. Robinson and Kelham, Stock inventory in: Stock Book, 30 June 1848, pp. 1-6.
57. William T. Charley, "Flax and Linen", in G. Phillips Bevan, (ed.) (1876) British Manufacturing Industries. Vol. 5. London: Edward Stanford, pp. 107-08 and William T. Charley, Flax and Its Products in Ireland (London: Bell and Daldy, 1862), p.113.
58. Charles Prestwich Scott (ed.), ‘Rival Velveteen Manufacturers: Chancery of the County Palatine of Lancaster’, The Manchester Guardian, 16 Nov 1880, p. 8; 17 Nov 1880, p. 6.
59. George E. Davis, Charles Dreyfus and Philip Holland, (1880) "Chapter VII. Packing and Packing Materials", Sizing and Mildew in Cotton Goods. Manchester: Palmer and Howe; and London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co., pp. 112-37.
60. Albert D. Shaw, (1882) "Packing of Textile Fabrics", The Cotton-Goods Trade of Lancashire. In: Cotton and Woolen Mills of Europe. Washington: Government Printing Office, pp. 53-59.
61. "Packing Goods for China", Textile Mercury, 1(8), 15 Jun 1889, p. 147.
62. James M. Hause, (1912) English Methods of Dyeing, Finishing, and Marketing Cotton Goods. Special Agents Series No. 56. Washington DC: Government Printing Office, pp. 11-12.
63. Henry Brougham Heylin, (1913) "Methods of Obtaining Business in Coloured (Woven) Goods", Buyers and sellers in the cotton trade, being a handbook for merchants, shippers, manufacturers, and others who are interested as producers or distributors. London: Charles Griffin & Co. Ltd., 118-22.
Index
Volume 3. Calico Printing: A Showcase for Innovation
List of Images
Timeline
General Introduction
Introduction – volume III
References
Part 1. The spectacle of technology
1. George Dodd, ‘A Day at a Lancashire Print-Work’, The Penny Magazine Magazine of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge, 12:727 (29 Jul 1843), pp. 289-96 and George Dodd, ‘A Day at the Barrowfield Dye-Works, Glasgow’, The Penny Magazine of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge, 13:791 (27 Jul 1844), pp. 289-93.
2. ‘Mr. T. Welch’s Table-Cloth Printing Works, Merton, Surrey’, The Illustrated Exhibitor and Magazine of Art: Collected from the Various Departments of Painting, Sculpture, Architecture, History, Biography, Art-industry, Manufactures, Inventions and Discoveries, Local and Domestic Scenes, Ornamental Works, etc. etc., 2:30 (Jul 1852), pp. 53-6.
3. William Fletcher, ‘Calico Printing: A Visit to Mayfield’, Manchester at Work (Manchester: Abel Heywood & Son, and London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co., 1871), pp. 3-12.
4. Elizabeth Lowe, (ed.) ‘Society: Entertainments, Balls, &c.’, The Queen, the Lady’s Newspaper, 4 Feb 1882, p. 100.
5. ‘The British Calico-Printing Industry. Annual Exports, £10,444,000!’, The Illustrated London News, 2 Dec 1899, pp. 801-2.
Part 2. The empire of taste: Role of the designer
6. H., J. ‘William Kilburn’, The Dublin Penny Journal, 1:23 (1 Dec 1832), pp. 183-4.
7. Robert Peel & Co. Designer’s Letter Book, 1807-1813.
8. Charles Swaisland, ‘Rules for the Drawing Shop’, c.1845.
9. Edmund Potter, Calico Printing as an Art Manufacture. A Lecture Read Before the Society of Arts, April 22, 1852 (London: John Chapman, 1852).
10. Thomas Bull, A Voice from the Bench. By a Designer (Manchester: James Ainsworth, 1853), pp. 5-14.
11. William Mercer, ‘Designers’ Ateliers in Paris’, Chambers’s Journal of Popular Literature, Science and Arts, 7:176 (16 May 1857), pp. 305-8.
12. A Fancy Manufacturer (pseud), ‘Ladies as Designers’, The Textile Manufacturer, 5:60 (15 Dec 1879), p. 425.
13. Thomas Letherbrow, ‘Warwick Brookes. I’, Manchester City News, 26 Aug 1882, p. 2.
14. George C. Haité, ‘On the Design and Designers of the Victorian Reign. Parts I and II’, Architectural Review: for the Artist & Craftsman, 2 (Jun-Jul 1897), pp. 81-9, 141-6.
15. Frederick Dolman, ‘The Art Movement. The Quaint and Grotesque in Cotton Designing’, Magazine of Art, 22 (Jan 1899), pp. 31-7.
16. Arthur Wilcock, ‘The Industrial Designer’, Journal of Manchester School of Technology Textile Society, 6, (1914), pp. 38-43.
Part 3. The principle of copying: Role of the engraver
17. Joseph Dodson Greenhalgh, Memoranda of the Greenhalgh Family (Bolton: T. Abbatt, 1869), pp. 103-6, 167-70, 173-81.
18. George Wallis, ‘Obituary. Joseph Lockett’, The Art-Journal, 33 (1 May 1871), p. 139.
19. B. S. Attwood, (ed.) ‘A Lancashire Industry. Calico Printing: Engraving the Designs. By Our Special Commissioner. Sketches by Our Own Artist’, Manchester Weekly Times, 20 April 1894, p. 5.
20. John Shearer, ‘Some things about engraving for calico printing’, The Guild of Calico Printers’, Bleachers’, Dyers’, and Finishers’ Foremen Yearbook 1923, (Manchester: Guild of Calico Printers’, Bleachers’, Dyers’, and Finishers’ Foremen, 1923) pp. 101-19.
Part 4. The ‘rainbow makers’: Role of the colourist
21. Edward Vint, Calico Printer’s Notebook, c. 1803-05.
22. John Graham, ‘Some of the Practical Discoveries of John Mercer Esquire of Oakenshaw, as Furnished to Me by his Son John for the Information of the Royal Society, 15th November 1847’, ‘History of the Printworks in the Manchester District from 1760 to 1846.’
23. Lyon Playfair, ‘The Chemical Principles Involved in the Manufactures of the Exhibition as Indicating the Necessity of Industrial Instruction’, Lectures on the Results of the Exhibition delivered before the Society of Art, Manufactures, and Commerce, at the Suggestion of H.R.H. Prince Albert, President of the Society (London: David Bogue, 1852), pp. 126-31.
24. John Lightfoot, ‘Diary Book. John Lightfoot Jur. trip to France, October 1854’.
25. Charles O’Neill, ‘The Printing and Dyeing of Calico, Silk, and Woollen Fabrics’, The Record of the International 1862 Exhibition (Glasgow, Edinburgh and London: William Mackenzie, 1862), pp. 356-64, and Charles O’Neill, ‘Garancine’ and ‘Garancine Colours’, Dictionary of Calico Printing and Dyeing; Containing a Brief Account of All the Substances and Processes in Use in the Arts of Printing and Dyeing Textile Fabrics: With Practical Receipts and Scientific Information (London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co.; and Manchester: A. Ireland & Co., 1862), pp. 96-102.
26. Charles O’Neill, Charles. ‘An Inquiry into the Extent to which Calico Printing and the Tinctorial Arts have been Affected by the Introduction of Modern Colours’, The Journal of the Society of Chemical Industry, 6 (31 Oct 1887), pp. 643-6.
27. Sir William Henry Perkin, ‘Address to the American Committee, 6 Oct 1906, New York’ in R. Meldola, A. G. Green and J. C. Cain (eds), Jubilee of the Discovery of Mauve and of the Foundation of the Coal-Tar Colour Industry by Sir W. H. Perkin (London: Perkin Memorial Committee, 1906), pp. 65-7.
Part 5. In the workshop: Role of the printer
28. James Thomson, ‘Copper-plate Work, in Calico-Printing’ and ‘Discharging of Colour’ in A. Rees (ed), The cyclopaedia or Universal Directory of Arts, Sciences, and Literature (London: Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme and Brown, 1819), vols, 9, 11, n.p.
29. Samuel Parkes, ‘On Calico-Printing’, Chemical Essays, Principally Relating to the Arts and Manufactures of the British Dominions (London: printed for the author by Baldwin, Cradock, and Joy, 1815), vol. 2, pp. 65, 117-23, 145-50, 173-8.
30. Considerations Addressed to the Journeymen Calico Printers. By One of their Masters (Manchester: Printed at the Herald-Office by J. Aston, 1815), and Considerations Considered and Replied Unto &c.’ in A Defence of the Calico Printers &c. Addressed to the Confederate Masters, and the Public in General, by the Workmen (Preston: I. Wilcockson, 1815).
31. Association of Calico Printers. Report of Calico Printers’ Committee on Wages; Resolutions of the Meeting; and List of Prices (Manchester: printed by Henry Smith, 1831), pp. 3-12.
32. John Lawson Kennedy, ‘Lancashire Print-Works and Miscellaneous Trades’ in Children’s Employment Commission. Second Report of the Commissioners: Trades and Manufactures (London, William Clowes and Sons, 1843), pp. B1-9, b1, b4, b7-8. (430. XIII.307, 431. XIV.1, 432. XV.1.
33. Edward Andrew Parnell, ‘Calico-Printing Processes’, Applied Chemistry in Manufactures, Arts, and Domestic Economy (London: Taylor and Walton, 1844), pp. 331-43.
34. Kenworthy, Charles. ‘Early Days of Calico Printing. An Old Letter’, in ‘The Finishing Trades’, Manchester Guardian Commercial, 15 May 1924, p. 713.
35. William Turnbull, (attrib). ‘The Calico Printing Machine. By a Calico Printer’, The Dyer and Calico Printer, 2 (Mar-Oct 1891), pp. 35-6, 53, 73, 89, 105, 121, 139, 157.
36. Ernest Honey, ‘Fabric Printing: Block Work and Machine Printing Compared’, The Dyer and Calico Printer, 14 (Aug-Oct 1894), pp. 115, 132, 138.
Part 6. A seasonal and fancy trade
37. Edmund Potter, A Letter to the Rt. Hon. Lord Althorp, Chancellor of the Exchequer, &c. &c. on the Subject of the Duty on Printed Cottons. By a Calico Printer (London: James Ridgway; and Manchester: T. Forrest, 1831) 2nd ed., pp. 11-39.
38. William Ross, A Letter to the Vice-President of the Board of Trade, on the Evils of an Extension of the Existing Copyright (Manchester: printed by Wm. Jackson, 1840).
39. James Thomson, Notes on the Present State of Calico Printing in Belgium, with Prefactory Observations on the Competition and Tariff of Different Countries (Clitheroe: printed by H. Whalley, 1841), pp. iii-xvi, 1-35.
40. George Wallis, ‘The Past Progress and Present Artistic Condition of Calico Printing in Britain.’ A lecture delivered at the Society of Arts, 23 May 1849. Formerly The Colour Museum, Bradford.
41. ‘Customs in the Cotton Trade. Tampering with the Imperial Standard of Measurement’, Textile Manufacturer, 5:30 (15 Jun 1877), pp. 175-6.
42. Richard Marsden, (ed). ‘English v. American Calico Printing’, Textile Mercury, 4:107 (9 May 1891), p. 323.
Part 7. Beginnings and endings
43. Benjamin Hargreaves, ‘Messrs. Hargreaves’ Calico Print Works at Broad Oak, Accrington’, The Journal of Design and Manufactures, 3:13 (Mar 1850), pp. 5-9; 3:14 (Apr 1850), pp. 44-7; 3:15 (May 1850), pp. 77-80.
44. Josiah Thomas Slugg, ‘Calico Printers’, Reminiscences of Manchester Fifty Years Ago. (Manchester: J. E. Cornish, and London: Simpkin, Marshall and Co., 1881), pp. 27-40.
45. Our Special Commissioner. ‘Some Materials Towards a History of Block Printing’, The Textile Mercury, 8:202 (4 Mar 1893), p.158-9; 8:205 (25 Mar 1893), p. 228.
46. Inquisitions of excise debtors. James Halfhide sen., and jun., Merton, Surrey, 15 Jun 1802; Peter Papillon, Neckinger Grounds, Bermondsey, 24 Sep 1810; Joseph Ancell, Rushey Mead, Surrey, 5 Jan 1814; James Clapham, Beddington Corner, Surrey, 5 Jan 1815; Thomas Huntingdon, Temple Mills, Essex, 16 Feb 1817.
47. [Old Ford sale advertisements], Public Ledger and Daily Advertiser, 12 Jul 1811, p. 3; 12 Sep 1811, p. 3; 1 June 1812, p. 2; 28 June 1813, p. 1.
48. John Salisbury, (auctioneer). ‘Bridge Water & Shaw Bridge Print Works, Clitheroe… Sold by Auction’, 7-8 Dec 1848 (Clitheroe: printed by Henry Whalley, 1848).
49. Court of Chancery. Particulars and Conditions of Sale of a Valuable Silk Printing Works, as a Going Concern, with benefit of Orders on Hand. For Many Years Owned and Worked by the Old-established Firm of Baker, Tuckers and Co., situate at Garrett Lane, Tooting, 5 Jul 1894 (London: printed by Witherby and Co., 1894).
Index
Biography
Dr Philip A. Sykas, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK
