1st Edition

Reverse Design A Current Scientific Vision From the International Fashion and Design Congress

    716 Pages
    by CRC Press

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    The collaboration between the Textile Department of the University of Minho and the Brazilian Association of Studies and Research (ABEPEM) has led to an international platform for the exchange of research in the field of Fashion and Design: CIMODE. This platform is designed as a biennial congress that takes place in different European and Latin American countries with the co-organization of another university in each location.
    The current edition was jointly organized by the University of Minho and the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda (CSDMM) - Universidad Politécnica de Madrid.

    CIMODE's mission is to explore fashion and design from a social, cultural, psychological and communication perspective, and to bring together different approaches and perceptions of practice, education and the culture of design and fashion. Through an interdisciplinary dialogue and intercultural perspective, CIMODE wants to generate and present new scenarios about the present and future of fashion and design. ‘DISEÑO AL REVÉS’ (‘BACKWARD DESIGN’) was the central theme of the 4th CIMODE (Madrid, Spain, 21-23 May 2018), which produced a highly topical and relevant number of academic publications presented in this book.

    Fashion and communication

    Performative runway in backstage liquidity
    A. Rabàdan & I. Bentz

    From hair to cultivated leather—the use of Alexander McQueen’s genetic information
    B.F. Pires & R.P. Cidreira

    The relevance of sketches in fashion design
    A. Moreira da Silva

    Digital banners as shop windows: Narrative constructions of online fashion brands
    D.V. Leal, D. Karam Jr. & M.C.P. Rodrigues

    The influence of soap operas in Brazilian fashion today
    T.C. Viana, A.A. Silva, A. Adverse, R. Ribeiro & A. Horta

    The world and the fashion “al revés” in António Variações
    M. Amaro

    Facets of youth culture: Discursive construction of Ahlma fashion brand
    B. Machado & M. Scoz

    Fashion films: A semiotics approach, a multimodal signification
    R. Effe

    The importance of language on the social medias of a brand
    M.H. de Carvalho & F.A.H. de Carvalho

    The effects of sense contained in the fashion advertising text: The Handred brand and the reiteration of genderless concept
    S.F. Bona & M. Scoz

    Analysis of attributes in unisex and genderless clothing
    B.M. Reis, R. Miguel, N.A. Jerónimo, M. Pereira & S. Azevedo

    Embroidery: The narrative of the ribbon of the presentation of Arthur Bispo do Rosário—confluences with contemporary visual artists
    L.U. Dantas, U.S.T. Barbosa, G.M.J. Sales, H.A. Dieb & R.R. Marques

    Eye tracking in fashion: An overview
    A.P. Faria, B. Providência & J. Cunha


    Fashion, identities and cultures

    Semiology: Culture as a symbol system and western influences comparison before and after the independence of 1947
    L. Vignes

    A geography of fashion, Medellín: 1900–1950
    W. Cruz Bermeo

    The Prêt-à-porter phenomenon and the boutiques in the dowtown area of Santiago, Chile
    J. Vidal Miranda & P. Álvarez Caselli

    Internationalism and exoticism in the image of Aline Romanones and Consuelo Crespi
    D. Gennaioli

    Reframing old age through design: An approach to promote empowerment
    I. Rojas & B. Pino

    Dolce and Gabbana and Louis Vuitton: A study on the effect of gender stereotyping in the 21st century fashion campaigns
    L. Watson

    Fashion, identity and culture in the Chinese fashion system. China, inspiration for Chinese fashion designers
    R. Gaddi

    The pleasurable dressing of Loewe: From the store of Martínez-Feduchi to the showroom of Carvajal
    A. Cano Redondo & A. Martínez-Medina

    Signifying the ritual legends of Brazilian Afro Religions: Candomblé and Umbanda in Teresina/Piauí/Brazil
    L.C. de M. Tavares & V.P. de S. Araújo

    Globalized brazilianness on the forming way of “Elementais”
    G.R.R. Vieira

    Class tourism, working-class porn and cultural appropriation in fashion: An introduction
    M. Glück

    Affection sewn into hats: Identity, self-esteem, women’s social relations
    G.P. Lenzi

    The lace fabric of Bahia clothing: From artisanal to industrial
    A. Okasaki

    Fashion design and craftwork: Subjectivation policies in the contemporary scenario
    A.R.V. Peroba & C. Mesquita

    Chinese fashion, occidental fashion: A semiotic translation
    Y. Pan

    The fashion design as a contribution to the preservation of Nazaré culture and costumes: 7 project
    S. Moreira, M. Pereira, A. Cruchinho, J.M. Lucas & R. Miguel

    DIY and the slow fashion movement: Sew for yourself
    L. Barrocas, G. Bezerra & M.A.V. Rocha

    Modes and Fashions of the colonial man from Minas Gerais: The indumentary of the defendants of the inconfidence of Minas Gerais
    A.F.B. Santos & A.P.X. Vilela

    The aesthetics in fashion design and cultural studies
    T. Lobo

    The physiological aspects of senescence: Comfort and relationship with the clothing
    M.D. Almeida, A.C. Broega & M. Moura

    Fashion design through sustainability and material culture: An exploratory and experimental study
    R. Norogrando

    Castelo Branco embroidery applied to clothing
    A. Cruchinho, A.S. Marcelo, P. Peres & A. Moura

    Female jeans: The aesthetic of Brazilian “popular fashion”
    I. Braga, M.J. Abreu & M.M. Oliveira

    The liberation of women in the 19th and early 20th centuries as seen through costume
    L. Luceño

    The Minho traditional costume as cultural heritage in fashion design
    S. Castro, J. Cunha & C. Morais

    The casualisation and homogeneity of contemporary fashion
    F. Spry


    Product design

    Practices of design: Understanding processes
    A. Rabàdan

    Contemporary textile products. Knitting as a fertile design ground for experimentation with 3D technologies
    G.M. Conti

    Clothing as an architectural project
    B. Alcoceba

    Marking embroidery in colors: The creative fashion process in AMAC, in São João dos Patos – MA
    M.S. Lima, R.G. Noronha & L.R. da Silva

    Miramar embroiderers, design and territory
    F.P. Vallejos

    Strategic approach to implement sustainability in the joineries of the city of Uberlândia, Brazil
    F. Moreira da Silva & J. Cardoso Braga

    A proposed procedure to develop clothing for pregnant women
    D.A.N. Mentone, R.H. Osava, S.H.A. Gomes, R.A. Sanches & A.Y.S. Duarte

    Functional fashion focused on the needs of people with disabilities
    L.N. Souza, S.H.A. Gomes, C.R.G. Vicentini, R.A. Sanches & A.Y.S. Duarte

    Designing for emotions: Evaluation of the drooler, a toy for preschoolers
    B. Providência, R. Brandão & P.B. Albuquerque

    Creativity and industrial fashion design—reviews, analyses and connexions
    J.A.B. Barata, R. Miguel & S. Azevedo

    Procedures and guidelines for the instruction and execution of pattern making: An analysis
    P.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro & R.R. Andrade

    Anthropometry and clothing for overweight and obese children: A literature review
    R. Campos & M.A. Carvalho

    The materialization of fashion products: An experience of the textile behavior
    P.M. Souza, M.M. Otani, P.P. Silva & I.C. Italiano

    Design and redesign
    G. Montagna & M.J. Delgado


    Marketing and consumption

    Psychographic segmentation of female fashion consumers in Portugal
    B. Moreira & A. Azevedo

    Taxhion. Model taxonomy clothing and accessories e-commerce
    B. Alcoceba, M. García-Ergüín, R. García, D. de las Heras & M. Adsuara

    Cultural values of minimalist fashion
    A.P. de Miranda, I. Domingues & N. Souza

    Emerging platforms for fashion design entrepreneurs: An assessment
    C.E. Fernandes, L. Ribeiro, M.S. Silva, M. Pereira & M.J. Madeira

    The use of online advertisement as a TXM branding methodology’s tool: FARM’s case study
    L.W. Ribeiro & L.S. Gomez

    The influence of social network sites on digital branding
    M. Barreto & L. Ribeiro


    Teaching and education

    Teaching design in real contexts to preserve local identity and memory
    A.H. Grácio & C. Rijo

    Immersive business simulation in footwear design education: A bridge for reality
    A.M. Terroso, A. Moreno, N. Amorim, H. Palmares & J. Sampaio

    Bounding fields of knowledge: Co-designing regional pottery of the Cávado sub-region as a strategic potential of museological differentiation and product development
    J. Sampaio, A. Baganha, F. Gomes & A.M. Terroso

    A case study of didactic laboratory approach in fashion design education
    X. Lin & A. Dell’Acqua

    Feminine magazines and the development of the female labor force in Valparaiso: Analysis of the graphic system of the Rosita magazine (1947–1972) as a didactic strategy for the informal learning of sewing
    F. Gonzalez, U. Bravo & C. Ruiz

    Bê a Bá of sewing: Our online friend
    L.C. de M. Tavares & J.P.C. de Brito

    Professional education and the formation of garments factory in Brazil
    V. Feldman & M.S.B. de Held

    Complex geometry and patterns: Colonizing the surrounding space through the costume
    M.J. Climent Mondéjar, M.P. Moreno Moreno & A. Cano Redondo

    Project thinking in fashion design: Strategies for facilitating cognitive and metacognitive processes
    M.C.F. Sanches & M.A.R. Silva

    Pattern making books: An analysis of documentary research
    P.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro & R.R. Andrade

    Interdisciplinarity: Creation of looks and techniques used by UFPE CAA students
    A. Camargo & R. Alves

    Active applied methodologies on fashion design teaching: Possibilities and challenges
    L.E.F.S. Rebello, G.D. Marques & M. Mansur


    Sustainability in fashion and design

    Fashion that cares for the future
    E. Araujo, I. Castro, I. Pinto & I. Araujo

    Design, tradition and culture—past and future united to develop depressed regions
    I. Oliveira & M.G. Guedes

    Circular economy: An approach for the fashion industry
    E. Pinheiro, S.M.B.D. Barcelos & A.C. de Francisco

    Reversal logistics: Case study in the franchises O Boticário in the city of Itabuna-BA
    E.N. Velanes

    Sustainable fashion. Strategies for sustainability and new forms of value creation in fashion and textile
    M.A. Sbordone, L. Di Lucchio & R.A. Sanches

    Generation Y’s sustainability attitude-behaviour gap
    J.P. Bernardes, F. Ferreira, A.D. Marques & M. Nogueira

    Collaborative economy: Case study of new business models
    S.R. Fernandes, J.M. Lucas, M.J. Madeira, A.I.C. Barreiros & I.D. Honório

    Imbrications and distances between the creative economy and the sustainability of small fashion brands
    U.S.T. Barbosa, H.A. Dieb, G.M.J. Sales, L.U. Dantas & A.N. Targino

    New sustainable fashion business models: “the coworking” case study
    L.F. Barcellos & A.C. Broega

    Sustainability: The reconfiguration of fashion, the textile industry and the role of the designer in a new social scenario
    M. de L. Iracet

    Tucum fiber: Reflections about Amazonian biodiversity, traditional knowledge and sustainable fashion
    L. Pennas & J. Baruque-Ramos

    Silk: Protocols for the verification of socioeconomic impacts in the production of cocoons
    S.M.B.D. Barcelos, M.G. Guedes, E. Pinheiro & A.C. de Francisco

    A perspective towards a circular fashion design system
    B. Melo & A.C. Broega

    Fashion and sustainability’s valences: Exposing gaps
    R. Puppim, C. Jordão, L.M. Arruda, D.P. Beduschi & A.C. Broega

    Design and social innovation: Methodological principles for community qualification
    J. Oenning, J.B. Garcia Jr. & J. Cunha


    Ana Cristina Breoga has a PhD in Textile Engineering - Textile Physics (Branch: Comfort) and Master's degree in Textile Design and Marketing from the University of Minho, Portugal. She is currently an Assistant Professor at the University of Minho, working in the 1st cycle courses in Fashion Design and Marketing and in the Master in Design and Marketing in the following disciplines: Apparel Design, Fashion Accessories Design (Footwear), Collection Preparation and Comfort and Physiology of Clothing. She has been a researcher at the Textile Science and Technology Center of the University of Minho since 1997.

    Joana Cunha is an Assistant Professor at the University of Minho. She teaches in the 1st cycle in Fashion Design and Marketing as well as in Masters in Design and Marketing and Fashion Communication Design courses. Joana is currently the director of the Fashion Design PhD course and chair of the Scientific Committee of the International Conference on Fashion and Design (CIMODE). Her main research interests are in design and emotional design methodologies applied to the field of fashion and textile design.

    Helder Carvalho graduated in Electrotechnical and Computer Engineering in 1992 at the University of Porto, Portugal. He concluded his MSc and PhD in Textile Engineering at the University of Minho between1998 and 2004. He is currently a teacher and researcher at the University of Minho, as Assistant Professor at the Department of Textile Engineering. In recent years he has been developing work at various interfaces between Product Design and Engineering, especially Textile and Fashion Design. Helder is coordinator of the MSc course in Design and Marketing and has been part of the coordinating committee of the BSc course in Fashion Design and Marketing at the University of Minho since 2005.

    Manuel Blanco is Dean of the Escuela Técnica Superior de Arquitectura de Madrid, Architecture School of the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid (ETSAM-UPM). He obtained a PhD in Architecture and  was appointed Full Professor in the Department of Architectonic Composition. Manuel has curated a vast number of exhibitions worldwide (Madrid, Rome, Tokyo, New York, Chicago, Moscow, Panama, among others). He is also member of the ICAM (International Confederation of Architectural Museums), and was the first director of the Museo Nacional de Arquitectura y Urbanismo (2007), Salamanca, Spain.

    Guillermo García-Badell is Dean of the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de Madrid, Fashion Design Center of the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid (CSDMM-UPM). He studied Architecture at the UPM de Madrid, and obtained a PhD in Marketing Research at the Faculty of Economic Sciences of the Universidad Complutense de Madrid. He is currently Professor of Fundamental Design, and lectures in several postgraduate degrees. Guillermo has participated in different national and international competitions and his architecture and design proposals have been presented in exhibitions and published in numerous media, earning various awards.

    Diana Lucía concluded her PhD in Art History in 2015 at the University Complutense of Madrid, obtaining the Extraordinary Doctorate Award. She has conducted research stays in London and Rome, and taught at the Unvierisdad Complutense de Madrid, the Universidades Norteamericanas Reunidas, ESERP Business School, and the Senior University of the Colegio de Doctores y Licenciados en Filosofía y Letras y en Ciencias de la Comunidad de Madrid. Dina has been Adjunct Teacher at the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de la Universidad Politécnica de Madrid (CSDMM-UPM) since 2017, where she teaches History of Arts and Design.