1st Edition
Temples of Luxury Volume II: Department Stores
This two-volume collection of British primary sources examines institutions such as hotels, inns, arcades, bazaars, co-operatives, shops and department stores in the long nineteenth century, which were often coded as ‘luxurious’. This period was marked not only by an increase of individual consumerism but also by the institutionalisation of opulent, often purpose-built spaces such as the much-admired new grand hotels, supposedly an American invention, and department stores, modelled on the French grands magasins. These environments were tied to leisure (no longer a prerogative of the upper classes) and thus to modernity. In addition to addressing the luxurious side of these institutions, including architectural innovation and interior decoration, we also consider the other side of luxury, examining the experience of staff and period debates over the morality of consumption.
This edition seeks to explore a fascinating but hitherto often neglected side of the British nineteenth century by bringing together a collection of annotated primary texts and visual material documenting these ‘temples of luxury’ as they were seen by their contemporaries.
VOLUME II DEPARTMENT STORES
List of Figures xi
Acknowledgments xiii
Introduction: Department Stores: Precursors,
Establishments, Alternatives 1
LISE SHAPIRO SANDERS AND SUSANNE SCHMID
1 Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures,
Fashions and Politics 9
RUDOLPH ACKERMANN (ED.)
1.1 ‘Harding, Howell, & Co.’s Grand Fashionable
Magazine, No. 89, Pall-Mall’ (1809) 11
1.2 ‘Messrs. Morgan and Sanders’s Ware-Room,
Catherine-Street, Strand’ (1809) 13
2 The Bazaar, Its Origins, Nature, and Objects Explained (1816) 15
JOSEPH NIGHTINGALE
3 Walks Through Bath (1819) 23
PIERCE EGAN
4 A Visit to the Bazaar (1820) 27
5 ‘The Lowther Arcade’ (1832) 35
6 ‘London Shops’ (1834) 41
7 ‘A Short Account of St. John’s Market’ (1835) 47
J. A. P.
8 On the Construction and Decoration of the Shop Fronts
of London (1840) 53
N[ATHANIEL] WHITTOCK
9 ‘The Lady Shopping’ (1841) 63
10 ‘Shops of London’ (1841) 69
11 ‘The Belle of the Burlington Arcade’ (1845) 73
F. O. WARD
12 Selection of Articles From Punch, or The London Charivari 81
12.1 ‘Important to Shopkeepers’ (1844) 83
12.2 ‘Dramatic Shopmen’ (1845) 85
12.3 ‘Geography for Young Ladies’ (1846) 86
12.4 ‘The Shops at Christmas’ (1849) 87
13 The Great Exhibition at the Crystal Palace 91
13.1 ‘History of the Great Exhibition’ (1851) 93
13.2 ‘A Glance at the Exhibition’ (1851) 95
13.3 Charlotte Brontë’s Letters on the Great Exhibition (1908) 102
14 ‘Arcadia’ (1853) 105
[GEORGE AUGUSTUS SALA]
15 ‘Mr. Gye’s Plan for a Glass Street’ (1855) 115
16 ‘London Shops, Old and New’ (1857) 119
CHARLES MANBY SMITH
17 ‘Shawls, and Where They Come From.
Cashmere Goat’ (1858) 127
18 ‘Westbourne Grove, Paddington’ (1860) 137
19 Punch on the International Exhibition 141
19.1 ‘Exhibitors and Their Advertisements’ (1862) 143
19.2 ‘Shopping at the World’s Show’ (1862) 145
20 ‘The Royal Polytechnic, Glasgow, the Grand Centre
of Attraction During the Holidays’ (1864) 147
21 Leisure Hour 151
21.1 ‘Shopping Without Money’ (1865) 153
21.2 ‘Going a Shopping’ (1866) 160
22 The Struggles of Brown, Jones and Robinson:
By One of the Firm (1870) 165
ANTHONY TROLLOPE
23 ‘Lunch with the Linendrapers’ (1872) 177
24 ‘The Arrangement of Departments’ (1874) 183
‘VIDI’
25 Co-operative Stores 191
25.1 ‘The Shopkeepers and the Co-operative Stores’ (1874) 193
25.2 ‘Domestic Puzzles: Where Shall I Buy – Shops
or Stores?’ (1879) 195
MRS. WIGLEY
26 ‘The Philosophy of Shopping’ (1875) 203
[ELIZA LYNN LINTON]
27 Reminiscences of an Old Draper (1876) 209
[WILLIAM H. ABLETT]
28 Warehousemen and Drapers’ Trade Journal 217
28.1 ‘Girls Behind the Counter’ (1876) 219
28.2 ‘Small and Large Shops’ (1876) 221
28.3 ‘Kleptomania’ (1876) 223
29 ‘Afternoon Strolls I: A Japanese Warehouse’ (1876) 225
EDWARD W. GODWIN
30 ‘Girl Labour in London’ (1877) 229
31 City Jackdaw (Manchester) 235
31.1 ‘Manchester Warehousemen and Clerks’ Schools’ (1878) 237
31.2 ‘In the Show-Room. [By a Lady Contributor]’ (1879) 239
32 ‘Leviathan Shops and Stores’ (1881) 241
33 Building News 251
33.1 ‘Shop Fronts’ (1881) 253
J. G. LIBRA
33.2 ‘Shop-Windows: – III’ (1881) 264
J. G. LIBRA
34 ‘ The Ladies’ Paradise ’ (1883) 267
ÉMILE ZOLA
35 A Guide to Window-Dressing: Reprinted from the
Warehousemen and Drapers’ Trade Journal (1883) 275
36 Death and Disease Behind the Counter (1884) 281
THOMAS SUTHERST
37 ‘The Riot in the West-End’ (1886) 289
38 The Manchester Jubilee Exhibition of 1887 297
38.1 ‘The Manchester Jubilee Exhibition. – II. Furniture
and Decoration’ (1887) 299
38.2 ‘The Manchester Jubilee Exhibition. – III. Furniture
and Decoration’ (1887) 304
39 ‘A Little Shopping’ (1892) 309
WILLIAM MORRIS
40 The Odd Women (1893) 317
GEORGE GISSING
41 ‘A Few Facts About the Living-In-System’ (1894) 325
C. R. FENDER
42 The Musical Comedy The Shop Girl (1894–96) 335
42.1 ‘The Royal Stores’ and ‘We’ll Proceed to Search for Ada’
from Th e Shop Girl 337
H. J. W. DAM
42.2 ‘“The Shop Girl”, at the Gaiety Theatre’ (1894) 340
43 ‘The Ethics of Shopping’ (1895) 345
M. JEUNE [LADY JEUNE]
44 The Parisian Diamond Company, New Premises
at 143 Regent Street, Opposite Liberty’s
[Advertisement] (1897) 355
45 Texts by Margaret Bondfi eld 359
45.1 ‘Conditions Under Which Shop Assistants Work’ (1899) 361
45.2 ‘Christmas Shop Slaves’ (1907) 371
46 ‘A Woman’s Shopping’ (1901) 375
R. NEISH
47 ‘A Woman’s Note-Book: How Shopping Affects
Woman – and Man’ (1905) 387
LADY PHYLLIS
48 ‘The Design and Architectural Treatment of the
Shop’ (1913) 391
H. V. LANCHESTER
49 Bainbridge, Newcastle 403
49.1 [Advertisement for the ‘French Room’] (1846) 405
49.2 ‘The Great Northern Exhibition of the Industry
of All Nations’ (1851) 406
49.3 ‘The Early Closing Association: Gathering
of Employes of Albert House’ (1867) 408
49.4 Memoir of Emerson Muschamp Bainbridge
of Newcastle-on-Tyne (1893) 411
THOMAS DARLINGTON (ED.)
50 The Albion Bazaar, Manchester 417
50.1 ‘New Bazaar’ (1831) 419
50.2 ‘Joseph Joyce’ (1831) 420
50.3 ‘Manchester Floral & Horticultural Society’ (1831) 421
50.4 ‘Manchester Floral and Horticultural Society’ (1831) 422
50.5 The Courier (1831) 423
50.6 ‘John, Samuel, and James Watts’ (1832) 424
51 Whiteley’s ‘Universal Provider’, London 425
51.1 ‘William Whiteley’s Establishment in Westbourne-Grove,
Paddington’ (1875) 427
51.2 ‘Topics of the Day by the Heroes of the Hour. No.
X. – My Success in Life. By Mr. W. Whiteley’ (1884) 429
51.3 ‘Why Is Whiteley’s So Often Burned Down?’ (1887) 435
52 Harrod’s, London 439
52.1 Advertisement (1897) 441
52.2 ‘How, When, and Where to Shop: A Day at Harrod’s,
Limited’ (1902) 444
52.3 Opening Stage Description and Two Songs:
‘Act I – Opening Chorus’ and ‘Finale – Act I’ from
Our Miss Gibbs (1909) 448
53 Selfridge’s, London 455
53.1 ‘The Opening of Selfridge’s’ (1909) 457
53.2 ‘Some Departments for Men at Selfridge’s (1909) 460
54 ‘Citizens, Awake! Rising of Militant Women:
Scenes Described by an Eye-Witness’ (1912) 463
Index
Biography
Lise Sanders is Professor of English literature and cultural studies at Hampshire College, MA, USA
Dr Susanne Schmid has taught at the universities FU Berlin, Frankfurt am Main, Princeton, Paderborn, Salford and Regensburg
