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The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies
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The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies
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Book Description
This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe.
Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact and consume. For each of the volume’s eight sections, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars and new voices, including practioner and industry voices.
This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and post graduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, fashion design and business.
Table of Contents
Eugenia Paulicelli, Veronica Manlow, Elizabeth Wissinger - General Introduction
PART I. Introduction
Fashion Theories and Histories
Chapter 1. - Giorgio Riello – Worlds with no Fashion? The Birth of Eurocentrism
Chapter 2. - Giovanni Matteucci - Aesthetics of Fashion
Chapter 3. - Nicholas Pappas – If Philosophy Were a Fashion Show – What Then?
Chapter 4. - Charlene K. Lau - Contemporary Avant-Garde Fashion
Chapter 5. - Yoko Katagiri - Economic Theories of Fashion
Chapter 6. - Anneke Smelik – A Posthuman Turn in Fashion
PART II. Introduction
Fashion Practices: From the Museum to the Workplace and Beyond
Chapter 7. - Karen Van Godsenthoven – Affect, Haptics and Heterotopia in Fashion Curation
Chapter 8. - Alana James – The Future Generation of Fashion: How Higher Education Contextualizes Sustainability as a Design Tool
Chapter 9. - Paola Bertola and Chiara Colombi - Reflecting on the Future of Fashion Design Education. New Education Models and Emerging Topics in Fashion Design.
Chapter 10. - Eva Iszoro Zak and Julian Roberts - Abstract Pattern Cutting as a Design Tool: Accidental Cutting Versus Subtraction Cutting
Chapter 11. - FIona Hackney, Katie Hill, Clare Saunders, Joanie Willet – Changing the World not just our wardrobes: A Sensibility for sustainable Clothing, care and quite Activism
Chapter 12. – Barbara Faedda - Fashion and Technology: Hand and Machine in High End Fashion Design
Chapter 13. – Melinda Byam, Crafting Care through Childhood: Education, Play and Sustainable Ethical Fashion
Chapter 14. Aude Le Guennec – From Ideation to Inclusion. Investigation in Contemporary Childrenswear of the Global North"
PART III. Introduction
Fashion, Body and Identity
Chapter 15. – Otto von Busch – Bullying and Barren Fashion: An Affective Perspective on the Psychopolitics of Dress
Chapter 16. – Debra Riley Parr - Prosthetic Aura: Thinking About Scent in Fashion
Chapter 17. – Diego Semerene – Tailoring the Impenetrable Body all Over Again: Digitality, Muscle and the Early Men’s Suit
Chapter 18. – Khyrssoula Kapartziani, Spyros Koulocheris and Myrsini Pichou - The Garment that Unifies and Differentiates: Anthropological Approaches and Regulatory Settings
Chapter 19. – Charles Thompson - College Students’ Fashion Activism in the Age of Trump
Chapter 20. – Mattia Roveri – Fashion in the Trenches: how the Military shapes the fashion industry
Chapter 21 – Lucy Moyse Ferreira – Violence and Fragmentation in Interwar Fashion and Femininity
PART IV. Introduction
Fashion and Place
Chapter 22. – Floriana Bernardi and Enrica Picarelli – Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie as Fashion Icon
Chapter 23. – Emilia Barna and Emese Dobos-Nagy - Transformation of the "Made In..." Label: Nations and Brands and the Hidden Global Relations of Productions.
Chapter 24. – Emanuela Scarpellini - The Italian Look or the Democratization of Fashion
Chapter 25. – Sakir Ozudogru – The Construction of Contemporary Brazilian Fashion Image
Chapter 26. - Lynda De Matteo - Globalized Identities in the Fashion Trade: the Case of Milano Unica Trade Show
Chapter 27. – Nafisa Tanjeem - Covid-19 and the Limits of Brand-based Activism in the Global Garment Industry
Chapter 28. – Dicky Yangzom, From Rag Trade to Thrifting: The Cultural Economy of Second- Hand Clothing
PART V. Introduction
Fashion and Print Media: Literature and Magazines
Chapter 29. – Annick Paternoster – Fashion Etiquette and Fashion Ethics: Rules and Values in Italian Turn of the Century Etiquette Books
Chapter 30. - Royce Mahawatte - Fashion and the English Novel
Chapter 31. – Adele Kudish – "Selling Themselves Piecemeal": The Economics of Beauty and Power in Four Representative Texts
Chapter 32. – Katarzyna Kocioleck - Fashion in Literature Based on Margaret Thatcher’s The Autobiography (1995)
Chapter 33. - Nazanin Hedayat Munroe – Lovers, Legends and Looms: Persian Narrative Poetry Depicted on Figural Silks in the Early Modern Period
Chapter 34. – Rachel Alexander - The Morality of the Middlebrow: Fashion in American and Canadian Mass-market Women’s Magazines in the 1920s
Chapter 35.- Skylla Blake, Natalia Berger - Fashion Consumption and Public Discourse: Mechanisms of Sales Obstruction
PART VI. Introduction
Fashion and Film
Chapter 36. – Marketa Uhlirova – Fashion in Cinema: Reframing the Field
Chapter 37. – Pamela Church Gibson – Costume, Cinema and Change: from Stardom to Celebrity Culture
Chapter 38. – Nick Reese-Roberts – The Master Narrative: Authorship, Fame and Failure in the Designer Fashion Film
Chapter 39. – Jonathan S. Marion and James Scanlan – Fashion and Gender in Superhero Comics and Films
Chapter 40. – Deepsikha Chatterjee – Sartorial Politics from Street to Screen: Female Leaders in India and Bollywood Design
PART VII. Introduction
Television and New Media
Chapter 41. - Cristina Sánchez-Blanco , Marta Torregrosa Puig, Javier Serrano-Puche - Mediatization of Fashion: An Approach from the Perspective of Digital Media Logic
Chapter 42. – Yana Melkumova -Reynolds - From Bag to "It"-bag: The "Consecration" of Sophie Hulme’s Tote Design
Chapter 43. – Marco Pedroni - Industrialized Inspiration: Reassessing the Osmosis Between Fashion and Art Through the Work of Trend Forecasters
Chapter 44. – Romana Andò – The Audience for Fashion: Digital Touch Points, Brand Circulation and the New Consumer Experience
Chapter 45. – Antonella Mascio - Media Convergence and Fashion and Television Series
Chapter 46. – Arturo Arriagada - Branding Daily Life: Fashion Influencers as Market Actors in the Social Media Economy
PART VIII. Introduction
The Future of Fashion and its Challenges
Chapter 47- Veronica Manlow – The Future of Luxury Fashion: Insights from Industry Experts
Chapter 48- Elizabeth Wissinger – Fashion’s Future in Biodesign
Chapter 49- Eugenia Paulicelli – Fashion and Race: Translating Cultures in Dapper Dan and Gucci
Editor(s)
Biography
Eugenia Paulicelli (Queens College and The Graduate Center, The City University of New York), professor, founder and director of the Concentration in Fashion Studies at the Graduate Center. Among her books, Fashion under Fascism (2004); The Fabric of Cultures. Fashion, Identity, Globalization (co-editor, 2009); Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy. (2014); Italian Style. Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age (2016).
Veronica Manlow is an Associate Professor at Brooklyn College (The City University of New York) in the Koppelman School of Business in the Business Management Department. Her current research investigates luxury labor performed by artisans in ateliers and factories. She is also conducting research on luxury salespersons.
Elizabeth Wissinger (Borough of Manhattan Community College and The Graduate Center, The City University of New York), professor of Sociology at BMCC, and faculty member in the Master of Arts and Liberal Studies, Fashion Studies Concentration at the Graduate Center. She has written, spoken, and published about fashion, technology, and embodiment, both in the US and internationally.
Reviews
An original and intriguing set of essays from a range of contributors who, across the eight sections of the book, employ diverse scholarly lenses to examine fashion’s theories, histories, practices, embodiment, places, media and futures. The chapters reinforce that fashion is active, it is a representative and shaper of cultures, not merely the product of an industry. The volume demonstrates how fashion demands to be studied, how it sheds light on who we are and who we can aspire to be. This book adds new dimensions to what we know and how we think about fashion.
Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA
Compiling an anthology is like putting together a menu: you have to cater to a wide range of tastes, look to both tradition and the future, and do the best with what is available. At best it must be lively, innovative, and convincing. On all counts, this is a stand-out Michelin 3-star compilation. As the editors aver, "fashion is culture in all its plural and diverse manifestations." The essays in the volume keep this assertion alive while asserting new ground. You will leave wholly satisfied, but with the intention of returning to it, again and again.
Adam Geczy, The University of Sydney, Australia
This exciting collection offers both breadth and depth in terms of its analysis of fashion. The editors have brought together a wide range of disciplines and approaches to fashion that emphasis its significance as culture in the very broadest sense, as aesthetic discourse and practice, industry and technology, communication and meaning. The main introduction and section introductions frame the issues very well and orientate the reader as to the contributions of individual authors and papers. This Companion makes a valuable contribution to fashion studies.
Joanne Entwistle, Kings College London, UK