1st Edition

The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies

    532 Pages 42 B/W Illustrations
    by Routledge

    532 Pages 42 B/W Illustrations
    by Routledge

    This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe.

    Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory, and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact, and consume. For each of the volume’s eight parts, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars, and new voices, including practioner and industry voices.

    This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and postgraduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, and fashion design and business.

    Introduction Eugenia Paulicelli, Veronica Manlow, and Elizabeth Wissinger

    Part I: Fashion Theories and Histories

    1. Worlds with No Fashion? The Birth of Eurocentrism Giorgio Riello

    2. Aesthetics of Fashion Giovanni Matteucci

    3. If Philosophy Were a Fashion Show: What Then? Nickolas Pappas

    4. Contemporary Avant-Garde Fashion Charlene K. Lau

    5. Economic Theories of Fashion Yoko Katagiri

    6A Posthuman Turn in Fashion Anneke Smelik

    Part II: Fashion Practices: From the Museum to the Workplace and Beyond

    7. Affect, Haptics and Heterotopia in Fashion Curation Karen Van Godtsenhoven

    8. The Future Generation of Fashion: How Higher Education Contextualizes Sustainability as a Key Design Tool Alana M. James

    9. Reflecting on the Future of Fashion Design Education: New Education Models and Emerging Topics in Fashion Design Paola Bertola and Chiara Colombi

    10. Abstract Pattern Cutting as a Design Tool: Accidental Cutting Versus Subtraction Cutting Methodologies Eva Iszoro Zak and Julian Roberts

    11. Changing the World Not Just Our Wardrobes: A Sensibility For Sustainable Clothing, Care, and Quiet Activism Fiona Hackney, Katie Hill, Clare Saunders, and Joanie Willett

    12. Fashion and Technology: Hand and Machine in (High-End) Fashion Design Barbara Faedda

    13. Crafting Care Through Childhood: Education, Play, and Sustainable Ethical Fashion Melinda Byam

    14. From Ideation to Inclusion: Investigation in Contemporary Childrenswear in the Global North Aude Le Guennec

    Part III: Fashion, Body, and Identity

    15. Bullying and Barren Fashion: An Affective Perspective on the Psychopolitics of Dress Otto von Busch

    16. Prosthetic Aura: Thinking About Scent in Fashion Debra Riley Parr

    17. Tailoring the Impenetrable Body all Over Again: Digitality, Muscle, and the Men’s Suit Diego Semerene

    18. The Garment That Unifies and Differentiates: Anthropological Approaches and Regulatory Settings Chrysoula Kapartziani, Spyros Koulocheris, and Myrsini Pichou

    19. College Students’ Fashion Activism in the Age of Trump Charles J. Thompson

    20. Fashion in the Trenches: How the Military Shapes the Fashion Industry Mattia Roveri

    21. Violence and Fragmentation in Interwar Fashion and Femininity Lucy Moyse Ferreira

    Part IV: Fashion and Place

    22. Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie as Fashion Icon: Addressing Nationalism and Feminism With Style Floriana Bernardi and Enrica Picarelli

    23. Transformation of the "Made In..." Label: Countries as Brands and the Hidden Global Relations of Production Emilia Barna and Emese Dobos-Nagy

    24. The Italian Look, or the Democratization of Fashion Emanuela Scarpellini

    25. Hybrid Fashion Patterns: The Construction of a Contemporary Brazilian Fashion Image Sakir Özüdoğru

    26. Globalized Identities in the Fashion Trade Lynda Dematteo

    27. The Labor of Fashion, Transnational Organizing, and the Global COVID-19 Pandemic Nafisa Tanjeem

    28. From Rag Trade to Thrifting: The Cultural Economy of Secondhand Clothing Dicky Yangzom

    Part V: Fashion and Print Media: Literature and Magazines

    29. Fashion Etiquette and Fashion Ethics: Rules and Values in Italian Turn-of-the-Century Etiquette Books Annick Paternoster

    30. Fashion and the English Novel Royce Mahawatte

    31. Adele Kudish "Selling Themselves Piecemeal:" The Economics of Beauty and Power in four Representative Texts Adele Kudish

    32. Fashion in Literature Based on Margaret Thatcher’s The Autobiography (1995) Katarzyna Kociołek

    33. Lovers, Legends, and Looms: Persian Narrative Poetry Depicted on Figural Silks in the Early Modern Period Nazanin Hedayat Munroe 

    34. The Morality of the Middlebrow: Fashion in American and Canadian Mass-market Women’s Magazines of the 1920s Rachael Alexander

    35. Fashion Consumption and Public Discourse: Mechanisms of Sales Obstruction Natalia Berger and Skylla Blake

    Part VI: Fashion and Film

    36. Fashion in Cinema: Reframing the Field Marketa Uhlirova

    37. From Stardom to Celebrity Culture and Beyond: Fashion, Costume, Cinema, and Change Pamela Church Gibson

    38. The Master Narrative: Authorship, Fame, and Failure in the Designer Fashion Film Nick Rees-Roberts

    39. Fashion and Gender in Superhero Comics and Films Jonathan S. Marion and James Scanlan

    40. Sartorial Politics from Street to Screen: Female Leaders in India and Bollywood Design Deepsikha Chatterjee

    Part VII: Branding, Media, and Television

    41. Mediatization of Fashion: An Approach from the Perspective of Digital Media Logic Marta Torregrosa Puig, Serrano-Puche, and Cristina Sánchez-Blanco

    42. Jana Melkumova-Reynolds From Bag to "It Bag": A Case Study of Consecration in the Field of Fashion Jana Melkumova-Reynolds

    43. Industrialized Inspiration: Reassessing the Osmosis Between Fashion and Art Through the Work of Trend Forecasters Marco Pedroni

    44. Audience for Fashion: Digital Touch Points, Brand Circulation, and the New Consumer Experience Romana Andò

    45. Media Convergence, Fashion, and TV Series Antonella Mascio

    46. Branding Daily Life: Fashion Influencers as Market Actors in the Social Media Economy Arturo Arriagada

    Part VIIIL The Future of Fashion and its Challenges

    47. The Future of Luxury Fashion: Insights from Industry Experts Veronica Manlow

    48. Fashion’s Future in Biodesign Elizabeth Wissinger

    49. Fashion and Race: Translating Cultures in Dapper Dan and Gucci Eugenia Paulicelli


    Eugenia Paulicelli (Queens College and The Graduate Center, The City University of New York) is Professor of Italian, Comparative Literature and Women’s Studies, and Founder and Director of the Concentration in Fashion Studies at the Graduate Center. Among her books are Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt (2004); The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, Globalization (co-editor, 2009); Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy (2014); and Italian Style: Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age (2016).

    Veronica Manlow is an associate professor at Brooklyn College (The City University of New York) in the Koppelman School of Business in the Business Management Department. Her current research investigates luxury labor performed by artisans in ateliers and factories. She is also conducting research on luxury salespersons. 

    Elizabeth Wissinger (Borough of Manhattan Community College and The Graduate Center, The City University of New York) is Professor of Sociology at BMCC, and Faculty Member in the Master of Arts and Liberal Studies, Fashion Studies Concentration at the Graduate Center. She has written, spoken, and published about fashion, technology, and embodiment, both in the USA and internationally. 

    "An original and intriguing set of essays from a range of contributors who, across the eight sections of the book, employ diverse scholarly lenses to examine fashion’s theories, histories, practices, embodiment, places, media, and futures. The chapters reinforce that fashion is active, it is a representative and shaper of cultures, not merely the product of an industry. The volume demonstrates how fashion demands to be studied, how it sheds light on who we are and who we can aspire to be. This book adds new dimensions to what we know and how we think about fashion."

    Hazel Clark, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA

    "Compiling an anthology is like putting together a menu: you have to cater to a wide range of tastes, look to both tradition and the future, and do the best with what is available. At best it must be lively, innovative, and convincing. On all counts, this is a stand-out 3 Michelin-star compilation. As the editors aver, 'fashion is culture in all its plural and diverse manifestations.' The essays in the volume keep this assertion alive while asserting new ground. You will leave wholly satisfied, but with the intention of returning to it, again and again."

    Adam Geczy, The University of Sydney, Australia

    "This exciting collection offers both breadth and depth in terms of its analysis of fashion. The editors have brought together a wide range of disciplines and approaches to fashion that emphasizes its significance as culture in the very broadest sense, as aesthetic discourse and practice, industry and technology, communication and meaning. The main introduction and section introductions frame the issues very well and orientate the reader as to the contributions of individual authors and papers. This Companion makes a valuable contribution to fashion studies."

    Joanne Entwistle, Kings College London, UK