1st Edition

The Routledge Companion to Fashion and Business

668 Pages 63 B/W Illustrations
by Routledge

The Routledge Companion to Fashion and Business brings together the latest research in one authoritative volume and engages with the past, present and future of fashion business to explore current and emerging issues. Fashion has expanded its reach into every area of our lives, satisfying a human desire for novelty and expression through self-adornment. Yet overproduction and lack of... Read more

Introduction

Part I: An Economic History of Fashion

1. Textiles and Global Trade Routes

Alexander Tertzakian

2. Industrialisation and Fashion

Elisabetta Merlo and Valeria Pinchera

3. Cotton, Capitalism and Colonialism

Andrew Brooks and Emma Rigby

4. Colonialism, Slavery and the Global Fashion Industry

Keith Fraley

5. Designers: Through the Looking Glass!

Talia Hussain

Part II: On Trend

On Trend: Understanding Why We Buy

6. Why We Buy: Fashion and Psychology

Carolyn Mair

7. Culture: The Econometrics of Emotion and How Cultural Dynamics Drive Modern Luxury

Martin Karaffa

8. Fairground Attraction: Fashion Business, Inspiration and Interaction

Gill Gledhill

9. Trend Prediction: Art or Science?

Valerie Wilson Trower

10. Fashion and Big Data, AI

Zofia Zwieglinska

On Trend: The Changing Face of Fashion Promotion

11. From Product to Brand: The Evolution of Brand Management in Fashion

Michael B. Beverland and Pınar Cankurtaran

12. Vogue China: Launching the World’s Most Famous Fashion Magazine in China

Babette Radclyffe-Thomas

13. Fashion Promotion and the Cultural Production of the Black Woman

Sharon Hughes

14. The Met Gala: Fashion, Fundraising, and Celebrity Culture at the ‘Party of the Year’

Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén

15. Writing for the Trade: Drapers Record

Josephine Collins

16. The Enduring Appeal of Fashion Illustration

Connie Gray

On Trend: The New Influencers

17. From Trendsetters to Trailblazers: The Evolution of Fashion Influencers from Micro Fame to Macro Impact

Abhilash Sugunan Nair

18. Digital Fashion Now: The Evolving Role of the Fashion Designer in the Digital Age

Leslie Holden

19. K-pop Idols: Fashion’s New Influencers

Amanda Sikarskie

20. What’s the Hype: Defining Cool for Gen Z

Joyce Li

Part III: Fashion and Place

Fashion and Place: Fashion Cities

21. A Tale of Two Cities? Antwerp, Hasselt and Flemish Fashion Branding

Graham H. Roberts

22. Fashion Cities: Paris, A Specific Positioning in the Global Fashion Landscape

David Zajtmann

23. Fashion Cities: London, A Place of Fashionable Trade and Spectacle

Lucie Whitmore and Bethan Bide

24. Hai Pai Style: Shanghai Chic and the Evolution of a Chinese Fashion City

Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas

25. Copenhagen: A Fashion Capital of Creativity, Culture, Collaboration and Community

Isabella Davey

26. Fashion Cities: Sao Paulo: Isaac Silva Brand, Acredite no seu Axé

Mi Medrado

Fashion and Place: My Favourite Shop

27. Department Stores: Icons of Selling

Sarah Elvins

28. The Rise and Fall of Fashion on the British High Street

Bronwen Edwards

29. Fashion Retail Now and Next

Bethan Alexander and Rosemary Varley

30. TOPSHOP 1997-2007: The Global Fashion Authority

Jane Shepherdson

Fashion and Place: Cultural Heritage

31. Fashion and Cultural Heritage: From Appropriation to Appreciation, the Case of Dior

Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas

32. Made in Italy, Made in France and Made in the USA: From Trade Wars to TikTok Fashion Wars

Babette Radclyffe-Thomas

33. From Cultural Icon to Threads of Resistance: The Afghan Coat and Social Sustainability

Zohal Krieg and Andreas Krieg

34. Doing Fashion Business in Africa

Frederica Brooksworth

35. Wrapped in Identity: Gender, Fashion, and the Bangladeshi / British Bangladeshi Story

Maher Anjum

36. Craft and Fashion: The Red List

Daniel Carpenter

Part IV: Coming Around Again

Coming Around Again: Curating Fashion

37. Decentring Fashion and the Museum through Fashion Curation

Nigel Lezama

38. Taking Fashion Seriously: The Costume Society at Sixty

Philip Warren

39. Fashioning Korea through Exhibitions - Hallyu! The Korean Wave

Rosalie Kim

40. Frida Kahlo: Art, Fashion, Identity, and the Dior Imagination

Circe Henestrosa

41. The NEXT archive

Philip Warren and Sarah Nicol

Coming Around Again: New Lives for Old Fashion

42. A Modern Renaissance for Vintage Fashion

Esther Pugh

43. History is Always in Fashion: The Reconstruction of Historical Dress

Jane Malcolm-Davies

44. The Intersection of Fashion-Tech and Resale: Key Technologies and Applications Transforming Secondhand Consumption in a Digital Age

Jade McSorley and Lauren Junestrand-Leal

45. Charity Shop Retail: Transforming High Street Fashion

Maria Chenoweth

46. Designing Out Textile Waste: The Redress Design Award

Christina Dean

47. Fashion Loops: H&M’s Circular Fashion

Edwin Keh

Part V: Fashion's Sustainability Reckoning

48. Can fashion save the world? And why should it? The State of Sustainable Fashion

Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas

49. Luxury and Sustainability Leadership: The Case of Emerging African Brands

Ken Kweku Nimo

50. Who Made My Clothes? A Fashion Revolution

Orsola de Castro

51. The True Cost: Ten Years On

Lucy Siegle

52. Changing Fashion Policy: The New York Fashion Act

Michelle Blair Gabriel

53. Architects of Desire: Why fashion marketing is crucial for sustainability

Rachel Arthur

54. Craft and Sustainable Fashion in India: A Tapestry of Climate and Cultural Resilience

Shruti Singh

55. Fashion and the Environment: Algae-Powered Fashion

Runa Ray

56. EU Labour Legislation in Fashion: Origins, Implementation, and Industry Impact

Muchaneta ten Napel

Part VI: Disrupting Fashion Business: Wayfinding for Fashion’s Future

57. No Fashion on a Dead Planet: XR Fashion

Alice Wilby and Clare Farrell

58. Finding Opportunity in Sustainable Innovation

Christine Goulay

59. Regenerative Renaissance: A New Model for Fashion Business

Nancy Vong Johnston

60. Supply chain solidarity: a route to building worker power and disrupting exploitation in fashion

Anna Bryher

61. Total Ethics Fashion

Emma Håkansson

62. No More Fast Fashion

Liz Ricketts

Biography

Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas, EdD, is Professor of Marketing and Sustainable Fashion at Ravensbourne University, London, an award-winning researcher and National Teaching Fellow named in The SustainabilityX® Magazine’s Global 50 Women In Sustainability Awards™ and is a fellow of the Royal Society of Arts.

Babette Radclyffe-Thomas, PhD, is News Editor at The Costume Society, UK, an award-winning fashion journalist, consultant and academic with the world’s first PhD in Vogue China and is a fellow of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland.

"This is a truly comprehensive collection of case studies, industry insights and academic essays covering the breadth of fashion and business. It is impressive in terms of its extensiveness and the number of global thought leaders from industry and academia who have contributed to this companion, making it a ‘go to’ read for students, academics and practitioners working in the field of fashion and business. The book covers all the topics which might be expected in a fashion and business companion text, yet takes a contemporary interpretation of them including economics, marketing, cultures, business models, consumer behaviour and more, as well as introducing some of the unique current issues and challenges for fashion including sustainability, resale and digital fashion."

Professor Liz Barnes, Head of Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK

"The Routledge Companion to Business and Fashion offers an unparalleled breadth of analysis across the world-spanning system of fashion. Across over 60 chapters, the book’s thematics include the economics of fashion, its trends and consumer psychology, fashion cultures, fashion places, and sustainability.

This is an essential book for fashion professionals, researchers and students, providing insights across the business, culture, and economies of fashion production. The book includes a diversity of voices: academics, industry professionals, and activists from around the world.

There are contributions on the fashion systems and businesses from Europe, Asia, Africa, and North and South America, extending from reflections on the new influencers of K-pop idols, to craft in India, to doing fashion business in Africa, to explorations of the fashion cities of South America and Europe.

Central to the book is the acknowledgement that the current system cannot continue in its present form. It includes powerful perspectives from those calling for new fashion business models founded on care and regeneration, as well as practical cases of circularity in action and the innovative materials disrupting business-as-usual.

The book is an extraordinary collation of leading thinkers in fashion business, and will prove inspirational and timely for all interested in the present state and future directions of the industry."

Professor Alice Payne, Dean, School of Fashion & Textiles, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia