1st Edition
The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present
The time span covered by The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress starts in the nineteenth century, with the aftermath of the consumers’ revolution, and reaches all the way to the present. The fashion and garment industries have been international from the beginning and, as such, this volume looks at the history of fashion and dress through the lenses of both international and global history. Because fashion is also a multifaceted subject with humanagency at its core, at the confluence of thematerial (fabrics, clothing, dyes, tools, and machines) and the immaterial (savoir-faire, identities, images, and brands), this volume adopts a transdisciplinary perspective, opening its pages to researchers from a variety of complementary fields.
The chapters in this volume are organized based on their relationship to five fields of study: economics and commerce, politics, business, identities, and historical sources.
Paying particular attention to change, the book goes beyond the great fashion capitals and well-known fashion centers and points to the broader geographies of fashion. Particular geographical areas focus on the emergence of new fashion systems and business models, whether they be in Sweden, Bangladesh, or Spain, or on the African continent, considered to be the “new frontier” of the industry.
Covering myriad aspects of the subject this is the perfect companion for all those interested in history of dress and fashion in the modern world.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Authors: POUILLARD, Véronique & Vincent DUBÉ-SENÉCAL
Part I – Manufacturing and Materiality
1. The Sewing Machine
Author: GODLEY, Andrew
2. The Chain of Production, the Chains of Production (1800-2020)
Author: MILLET, Audrey
3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex
Author: BLASZCZYK, Regina Lee
4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric
Author: GROSFILLEY, Anne
5. Swedish Splendor behind the Scenes
Author: EIDE, Hanne
6. Mending and Repairing
Author: KÖNIG, Anna
Part II – The Politics of Fashion and Dress
7. National and Regional Dress
Authors: VAN HAAFTEN, Jennifer & Annette LYNCH
8. Palestinian Labor and Embroidery in the Diaspora
Author: ABOU-HODEIB, Toufoul
9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th and 20th Century Black American Fashion Designers
Author: WAY, Elizabeth
10. Fashion and Feminism
Author: WALLENBERG, Louise
11. Fascism for Export: Fashion in the 1930s in Italy and Beyond
Author: PAULICELLI, Eugenia
12. Fashion and Diplomacy
Authors: DUBÉ-SENÉCAL, Vincent & Madeleine GOUBAU
Part III – Fashion as Business
13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender and Artificial Intelligence
Authors: VAN BARNEVELD, Lisa & Ben WUBS
14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform
Authors: MIRANDA, José Antonio & Alba ROLDÁN
15. Bangladesh Ready-Made Garment (RMG) Industry
Author: RAHMAN, Shahidur
16. Fashioning a Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identity at African Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN)
Author: OMOYELE, Tolulope
17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, Exhibitions and Fashion Branding
Author: BELFANTI, Marco
18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, From International to Post-Colonial Contexts
Author: POUILLARD, Véronique
19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism
Author: VON WACHENFELDT, Paula
Part IV – The Body and the Self
20. From Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750 to Dior Air Jordan 1
Author: WILLIAMS, Jean
21. Mourning Dress
Author: BASS-KRUEGER, Maude
22. Men of Fashion: 1800–2020
Author: MCNEIL, Peter
23. Fashion and Eroticism
Author: STEELE, Valerie
24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media
Author: SARK, Katrina
25. Queer Style
Author: GECZY, Adam & Vicki KARAMINAS
26. Washing Clothes
Authors: KLEPP, Ingun Grimstad & Kirsi LAITALA
27. The Cultural Economies of Secondhand Clothes
Author: LE ZOTTE, Jennifer
Part V – Sources for the History of Fashion and Dress
28. Fashion at Your Fingertips: Digital Resources for Fashion and Dress Research
Author: TRIVETTE, Karen Jamison
Index
Biography
Véronique Pouillard is a professor of international history at the University of Oslo (Norway). She has published Paris to New York, The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century (2021). She leads the research project ERC CoG CREATIVE IPR, The History of Intellectual Property in the Creative Industries (2018-2025).
Vincent Dubé-Senécal is a governance advisor at the Collège de Rosemont (Montréal, Québec). He is a Marie Skłodowska-Curie Actions (MSCA) Alumni and the author of La mode française. Vecteur d’influence aux États-Unis (1946-1960) (2020). His research interests are the history of international relations, fashion, and diplomacy.
