1st Edition

Responsible Fashion Business in Practice Sustainable Concepts and Cases across the Fashion Industry

By Sennait Ghebreab, Sally Heale Copyright 2023
    240 Pages 83 B/W Illustrations
    by Routledge

    240 Pages 83 B/W Illustrations
    by Routledge

    This unique text offers a holistic, insightful and timely exploration of sustainable practices across the fashion industry.

    The book takes the reader logically through each part of the authors’ new Responsible 9 Framework™, providing a clear perspective and examples for each component. The framework thoroughly explains the move away from a singular product commercial focus to a Conscious Item approach and Circular Services business mindset. An organisation’s people are at the heart of the new framework and have therefore been rebranded as Community. Next addressed is the Perceived Value of an item or brand, and how sustainable pricing initiatives actively influence consumer purchase. Insights into Accountable Systems are reviewed to examine the importance of responsible processes when considering and integrating a successful, sustainable supply chain into a fashion business. The section on Governance looks at the different global organisations available to fashion brands and customers alike, which support their transition into a responsible and sustainable future existence. The last two sections of the framework are labelled Storytelling Platforms and Honest Communication, where transparent and honest strategies are highlighted and discussed from a viewpoint of how modern brands are engaging and connecting to the new conscious consumer. For each of the nine aspects, contemporary case studies from global brands such as Stella McCartney, Zalando and Arc'teryx, alongside insights from current, leading experts within the fashion world, bring the theory to life.

    Showing how sustainability has been integrated throughout the entirety of the fashion business, this textbook is perfect for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students Fashion Management, Fashion Brand Management and Fashion Marketing, as well as reflective leaders and practitioners within the industry.

    LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS

    FOREWORD

    • The book and its associated content are introduced by Andrea De Santis, who is part of the Global McKinsey AF&L team. He specialises in the retail sector, currently leading the AF&L practice in the Italian office.

    • ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 

     

    INTRODUCTION

      • So what does sustainability mean in the fashion business now?

      • The emergence of the mindful "Eco-Conscious Consumer"

      • Expert Insight from Disha Daswaney

      • From planned obsolescence to circular systems

      • Dissecting and understanding the 7P’s

      • Introducing THE RESPONSIBLE 9 FRAMEWORK

      • Objective of the book and how the book structured 

      • References and further reading

      CHAPTER 1 - CONSCIOUS ITEM

        • Expert insight from Charlotte Turner

        • Responsible Fashion Design

        • Expert insight from Massimo Casagrade

        • Textiles and Fibres

        • Dyes

        • Expert insight from Karen Spurgin

        • Slow fashion

        • Expert insight from Jeffery Heilgers

        • Key takeaways

        • References and further reading

        CHAPTER 2 - CIRCULAR SERVICES

          • The Product Life Cycle: The post purchase necessity  

          • Turning waste and deadstock into new items

          • Circular ranges and products from plastic

          • Increasing the lifespan of a garment through aftercare

          • Repair

          • Buy and give back schemes

          • Preserving the archive

          • Expert insight from Andrew Groves

          • Second hand market 

          • Expert insight from Felix Krueger

          • Expert insight from Gemma A Williams

          • The Sharing Economy 

          • The consumer as the investor

          • The new conscious priority

          • Expert insight from Laura Coppen and Daniel Newton

          • Key takeaways

          • References and further reading 

          CHAPTER 3 - COMMUNITY 

            • Expert insight from Craig Crawford,

            • Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)

            • Introducing the CITREC Framework for CSR

            • Expert insight from Lisa Nann

            • Mission Statements

            • Diversity in the workplace

            • Expert insight from Mathew Dixon

            • Equal representation in marketing and advertising 

            • Volunteer programs

            • The role of education

            • Expert insight from Liliana Sanguino Ramirez

            • Key takeaways

            • References and further reading 

            CHAPTER 4 - PERCEIVED VALUE

              • Typical price strategy

              • Transparent pricing - the importance in communicating the true cost to the consumer

              • Expert insight from Mytro Angelidou

              • Connecting with credible causes aligned to your brand proposition 

              • Volunteer programs

              • Expert insight from Lucy Litwack

              • Charitable donations

              • Expert insight from Erica Charles

              • Key takeaways

              • References and further reading 

              CHAPTER 5 - ACCOUNTABLE SYSTEMS 

                • Responsible Sourcing and Supply Chain

                • Upstream and Downstream

                • The challenges with the Supply Chain

                • Expert insight from Archana Chandrasekar

                • The deep layers of the fashion supply chain

                • The need for ACCOUNTABLE SYSTEMS

                • Unacceptable practice exposed

                • Emissions

                • Carbon Neutral

                • Carbon Negative / Net Zero

                • Sustainable transportation

                • Innovations

                • Expert insight from James Clark

                • QR Codes

                • On Demand Manufacturing

                • Expert insight from Joanne Yulan Jong

                • Packaging

                • Biodegradable sustainable packaging solutions

                • Reusable packaging

                • Packaging free

                • Solutions 

                • Expert insight from Amy Kim

                • Key insights

                • References and further reading

                CHAPTER 6 - GREEN ENVIRONMENT 

                  • The move to green and more environmentally friendly stores

                  • Zero waste

                  • Store interiors

                  • Clothes hangers 

                  • Mannequins

                  • The 5 R’s Hierarchy, Bell, 2020

                  • Expert insight from Patsy Perry

                  • Energy efficient lighting

                  • Renewable energy 

                  • Key takeaways

                  • References and further reading

                  CHAPTER 7 - GOVERNANCE 

                    • Organisations 

                    • Expert insight from M. Fernanda Hernandez Franco

                    • Certifications  / Certification companies

                    • Activist groups

                    CHAPTER 8 - HONEST COMMUNICATION

                      • What is Greenwashing?

                      • Green marketing & communication 

                      • The New Green Marketing Paradigm, Ottman, 2011

                      • Ottman’s 7 Winning Strategies for Green Marketing, Ottman 2011

                      • Transparent communication

                      • Expert Insight from Peter Rees 

                      • The changing consumer 

                      • AIDA Marketing Model, Lewis, 1898

                      • Expert Insight from Martin Deal

                      • Responsible consumption

                      • Expert insight from Veronica Bates Kassatly

                      • Equal representation in marketing and advertising 

                      • Multicultural and inclusive marketing 

                      • The following expert insight, provided from photographer Darren Black

                      • Influencer marketing

                      • Expert insight from Giorgia Pagliuca 

                      • Brand activism and cause marketing strategies

                      • Key insights

                      • References and further reading

                      CHAPTER 9 - STORYTELLING PLATFORMS 

                        • Expert insight from Nick Pye

                        • Storytelling retail spaces

                        • Retailers showing genuine inclusive behaviour on the shop floor

                        • Expert insight by Vittorio Cosma and Mario Innocente

                        • Manifestos

                        • Communicating commitments in store

                        • Local stores

                        • Expert insight by Rae Sims

                        • Live streaming shopping experience

                        • Podcasting

                        • Expert insight by Samara Croci

                        • Key insights

                        • References and further reading

                        INDEX

                        Biography

                        Sennait Ghebreab is Programme Leader, Fashion Business, at the Istituto Marangoni School of Fashion, UK.

                        Sally Heale is Senior Lecturer at University of Westminster, UK and a Senior Tutor, Fashion Business, at the Istituto Marangoni School of Fashion, UK.

                        This is a must read for those interested in learning more about responsible fashion business in practice. The authors have created a valuable tool, named the RESPONSIBLE 9 FRAMEWORK and this is introduced and explained throughout the book. Insightful contemporary case studies and industry insights excellently serve to justify and clarify each of the 9 elements of the framework

                        Paolo Taticchi, Professor in Strategy and Sustainability, UCL School of Management, UK

                        This book offers an insightful take on how to re-think sustainability within the fashion industry, in all organisational areas, and at all stages of the product lifecycle. Definitely a must read for all fashion business leaders, students in the field and fashion consumers who want to make more informed purchase decisions

                        Eva Baquedano, Chief Omnichannel & Client Officer, LOEWE

                        An essential and accurate guide for every responsible business leader and consumer who is seriously committed to embracing the transition to a more sustainable future. A better future starts by asking ourselves the right questions, as this book brilliantly does.

                        Francesca Ragazzi, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue Italia